TX 747 
.34 

Copy 1 


Department of Cookery 

WOMANS 

iM5rrruTE 

oPDOMEcSTIC 
AKE5 8\5CIENCES 

INC, 



INSTRUCTION PAPER 
With Examination Questions 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 

By Flora G. Sell 

FIRST EDITION 

60 


INTERNATIONAL TEXTBOOK. COMPANY 

•SCRANTON, PA. 


















ADVICE TO THE STUDENT 

To get the best results from your lessons, study a few pages at a 
time and in consecutive order. To learn how to cook, you must do 
actual cooking. You will therefore find it greatly to your advantage 
to try out as many recipes as possible and to prepare every menu 
given. If you encounter any statement that you do not understand 
or if you meet with difficulties of any kind, write to us for assistance. 
It is our desire to aid you in every way possible. 

After you have studied the entire Section, review it carefully. 
Then write your answers to the Examination Questions and forward 
them to us. You do not have to write the questions. Simply write 
in front of each answer the number and letter of the question to 
which it refers, and be sure to keep your answers in the order in 
which the questions are given. . 

Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences, Inc. 


CONTENTS 

. Page 

Fish in the Diet....... 1 

Composition of Fish...-...... 3 

Food Value of Fish...*......'. 4 

Purchase and Care of Fish..'..... ..;. N ......... 7 

Cleaning Fish ... _..... 11 

Boning Fish. 14 

Skinning Fish ....... 14 

Filleting Fish ...... . .. . .......;. 15 

Methods o f Cooking Fish..... 17 

Recipes for Fish Sauces and Stuffings.......... f........ 18 

Recipes- for Fresh Fish.... 21 

Recipes for Salt and Smoked Fish... 31 

Recipes for Canned Fish.. ..............-........ 33 

Recipes for Deft-Over Fish......... ....... . 35 

Nature, Varieties, and" Use of Shell Fish ...... N . 36 

Oysters and Their Preparation.. 39 

Clams dud Their Preparation... ....... 47 

Scallops and Their Preparation............ 49 

Lobsters and Their Preparation....... . ... 51 

Crabs and Their Preparation......... 56 

Shrimp and Their Preparation........’.. 58 


Copyright, 1918, by International Educational Publishing Company. Copyright in 
Great Britain. All rights reserved. 






























4A* 


\ 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


FISH 


FISH IN THE DIET 

1. Fish provides another class of high-protein or tissue-building 
food. As this term is generally understood, it includes both verte¬ 
brate fish—that is, fish having a backbone, such as salmon, cod, shad, 
etc.—and many other water animals, such as lobsters, crabs, shrimp, 
oysters, and clams. A distinction, however, is generally made 
between these two groups, those having bones being regarded prop¬ 
erly as fish and those partly or entirely encased in shells, as shell fish. 
It is according to this distinction that this class of foods is con¬ 
sidered in this Section. Because all the varieties of both fish and 
shell fish are in many respects similar, the term sea food is often 
applied to them, but, as a rule, this term is restricted to designate 
salt-water products as distinguished from fresh-water fish. 


2. Fish can usually be purchased at a lower price than meat, and 
for this reason possesses an economic advantage over it. Besides 
the price, the substitution of fish for meat makes for economy in a 
number of ways to which consideration is not usually given. These 
will become clearly evident when it is remembered that nearly all 
land animals that furnish meat live on many agricultural products 
that might be used for human food. Then, too, other foods fed to 
animals, although not actually human foods, require in their raising 
the use of soil that might otherwise be utilized for the raising of 
food for human beings. This is not true in the case of fish. They 
consume the vegetation that grows in lakes, streams, and the ocean, 
as well as various kinds of insects, small fish, etc., which cannot be 
used as human food and which do not require the use of the soil. 

COPYRIGHTED BY INTERNATIONAL EDUCATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

§13 


By 

)*N 


ft \919 




FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


In addition, much of the food that animals, which are warm-blooded, 
take into their bodies is required to maintain a constant temperature 
above that of their surroundings,’ so that not all of what they eat is 
used in building up the tissues of their bodies. With fish, however, 
it is different. As they are cold-blooded and actually receive heat 
from their surroundings, they do not require food for bodily 
warmth. Practically all that they take into the body is built up into 
a supply of flesh that may be used as food for human beings. 

3. With fish, as with other foods, some varieties are sought more 
than others, the popularity of certain kinds depending on the indi¬ 
vidual taste or the preference of the people in a particular locality. 
Such popularity, however, is often a disadvantage to the purchaser, 
because a large demand for certain varieties has a tendency to cause 
a rise in price. The increased price does not indicate that the fish 
is of more value to the consumer than some other fish that may be 
cheaper because it is less popular, although quite as valuable from 
a food standpoint. The preference for particular kinds of fish and 
the persistent disregard of others that are edible is for the most 
part due to prejudice. In certain localities; one kind of fish may 
be extremely popular while in others the same fish may not be used 
for food at all. Such prejudice should be overcome, for, as a 
matter of fact, practically every fish taken from pure water is fit to 
eat, in the sense that it furnishes food and is not injurious to health. 

In addition, any edible fish should be eaten in the locality where 
it is caught. The transportation of this food is a rather difficult 
matter, and, besides, it adds to the cost. It is therefore an excellent 
plan to make use of the kind of fish that is most plentiful, as such 
practice will insure both better quality and a lower market price. 

4. As is well known, fish is an extremely perishable food. 
Therefore, when it is caught in quantities too great to be used at 
one time, it is preserved in various ways. The preservation methods 
that have proved to be the most satisfactory are canning, salting and 
drying, smoking, and preserving in various kinds of brine and pickle. 
As such methods are usually carried out in the locality where the 
fish is caught, many varieties of fish can be conveniently stored for 
long periods of time and so distributed as to meet the requirements 
of the consumer. This plan enables persons far removed from the 
source of supply to procure fish frequently. 

©CU504395 c 

AOG 28 1918 


§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


O 


COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FISH 


COMPOSITION OF FISH 

5. Comparison of Fish With Meat. —In general, the com¬ 
position of fish is similar to that of meat, for both of them are high- 
protein foods. However, some varieties of fish contain large 
quantities of fat and others contain very little of this substance, so the 
food value of the different kinds varies greatly. As in the case of 
meat, fish is lacking in carbohydrate. Because of the close similarity 
between these two foods, fish is a very desirable substitute for meat. 
In fact, fish is in some respects a better food than meat, but it can¬ 
not be used so continuously as meat without becoming monotonous; 
that is to say, a person will grow tired of fish much more quickly 
than of most meats. The similarity between the composition of fish 
and that of meat has much to do with regulating the price of these 
protein foods, which, as has already been learned, are the highest 
priced foods on the market. 

6. Protein in Fish. —In fish, as well as in shell fish, a very 
large proportion of the food substances present is protein. This 
proportion varies with the quantity of water, bone, and refuse that 
the particular food contains, and with the physical structure of the 
food. In fresh fish, the percentage of this material varies from 
6 to 1 7 per cent. The structure of fish is very similar to that of 
meat, as the flesh is composed of tiny hollow fibers containing extrac¬ 
tives, in which are dissolved mineral salts and various other 
materials. The quantity of extractives found in these foods, how¬ 
ever, is less than that found in meat. Fish extracts of any kind, 
such as clam juice, oyster juice, etc., are similar in their composition 
to any of the extractives of meat, differing only in the kind and 
proportions. In addition to the muscle fibers of fish, which are, of 
course, composed of protein, fish contains a small quantity of albu¬ 
min, just as meat does. It is the protein material in fish, as well as 
in shell fish, that is responsible for its very rapid decomposition. 

The application of heat has the same effect on the protein of fish 
as it has on that of meat, fowl, and other animal tissues. Conse¬ 
quently, the same principles of cookery apply to both the retention 
and the extraction of flavor. 



4 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


7. Fat in Fish.— The percentage of fat in fish varies from less 
than 1 per cent, in some cases to a trifle more than 14 per cent, in 
others, but this high percentage is rare, as the average fish probably 
does not exceed from 3 to 6 or 7 per cent, of fat. This variation 
affects the total food value proportionately. The varieties of fish 
that contain the most fat deteriorate most rapidly and withstand 
transportation the least well, so that when these are secured in large 
quantities they are usually canned or preserved in some manner. 
Fish containing a large amount of fat, such as salmon, turbot, eel, 
herring, halibut, mackerel, mullet, butterfish, and lake trout, have a 
more moist quality than those which are without fat, such as cod. 
Therefore, as it is difficult to cook fish that is lacking in fat and 
keep it from becoming dry, a fat fish makes a more palatable food 
than a lean fish. The fat of fish is very strongly flavored; conse¬ 
quently, any that cooks out of fish in its preparation is not suitable 
for use in the cooking of other foods. 

8. Carbohydrate in Fish. —Like meat, fish does not contain 
carbohydrate in any appreciable quantity. In fact, the small amount 
that is found in the tissue, and that compares to the glycogen found 
in animal tissues, is not present in sufficient quantities to merit con¬ 
sideration. 

9. Mineral Matter in Fish.— In fish, mineral matter is quite 
as prevalent as in meat. Through a notion that fish contains large 
proportions of phosphorus, and because this mineral is also present 
in the brain, the idea that fish is a brain food has become widespread. 
It has been determined, however, that this belief has no foundation. 


FOOD VALUE OF FISH 

10. Factors Determining- Food Value. —The total food 
value of fish, as has been shown, is high or low, varying with the 
food substances it contains. Therefore, since, weight for weight, 
the food value of fat is much higher than that of protein, it follows 
that the fish containing the most fat has the highest food value. Fat 
and protein, as is well known, do not serve the same function in the 
body, but each has its purpose and is valuable and necessary in the 
diet. Some varieties of fish contain fat that is strong in flavor, and 
from these the fat should be removed before cooking, especially if 
the flavor is disagreeable. This procedure of course reduces the 



§13 FISH AND SHELL FISH 5 

total food value of the fish, but it should be done if it increases the 
palatability. 

11. Relative Nutritive Value of Fish and Meat. —When 
fish and meat are compared, it will be observed that some kinds of 
fish have a higher food value than meat, particularly if the fish con¬ 
tains much fat and the meat is lean. Whtn the average of each of 


TABLE I 

COMPARISON OF COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FISH AND MEAT 



Composition 

Total Food 
Value 
per Pound 
Calories 

Food Value 
per Pound 
Due to 
Protein 
Calories 

Edible Portion 

Protein 
Per Cent. 

Fat 

Per Cent. 

Fish: 

Bass, black. 

20.6 

1.7 

443 

373 

Bluefish . 

19.4 

1.2 

401 

352 

Carp . 

17.4 

2.6 

421 

315 

Catfish. 

14.4 

20.6 

1,102 

262 

Halibut steak. 

18.6 

5.2 

550 

337 

Lake trout. 

17.8 

1.0 

363 

323 

Red snapper. 

19.2 

1.0 

389 

348 

Salmon (canned) . 

21.8 

12.1 

888 

396 

Whitefish . 

22.9 

6.5 

680 

415 

Meat: 

Beef, round, medi¬ 
um fat. 

20.3 

13.6 

895 

368 

Chicken, broilers . . 

21.5 

2.5 

492 

390 

Fowl . 

19.3 

16.3 

1,016 

350 

Lamb, leg. 

19.2 

16.5 

870 

348 

Pork chops. 

16.6 

30.1 

1,455 

301 


these foods is compared, however, meat will be found to have a 
higher food value than fish. To show how fish compares with meat 
and fowl, the composition and food value of several varieties of each 
food are given in Table I, which is taken from a United States 
government bulletin. 

12. A study of this table will show that on the whole the per¬ 
centage of protein in the various kinds of fish is as much as that 

































G 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


in meat, while in a few instances, it is greater. This proves that so 
far as the quantity of protein is concerned, these two foods are 
equally valuable in their tissue-forming and tissue-building quali¬ 
ties. It will be seen also that the percentage of fat in fish varies 
greatly, some varieties containing more than meat, but most of them 
containing less. Furthermore, the total food value per pound, in 
calories, is for the most part greater in meat than in fish, whereas 
the food value per pound due to protein is equivalent in most cases, 
but higher in some of the fish than in the meat. 

13. It must also be remembered that the drying or preserving 
of fish does not in any way decrease its food value. In fact, pound 
for pound, dried fish, both smoked and salt, contains more nutritive 
value than fresh fish, because the water, which decreases the food 
value of fresh fish, is driven off in drying. However, when prepared 
for eating, dried fish in all probability has more food value than 
fresh fish, because water or moisture of some sort must be supplied 
in its preparation. 

14. The method of preparing dried or preserved fish, as well as 
fresh fish, has much to do with the food value obtained from it. 
Just as nutritive value is lost in the cooking of meat by certain 
methods, so it may be lost in the preparation of fish if the proper 
methods are not applied. To obtain as much food value from fish 
as possible, the various points that are involved in its cookery must 
be thoroughly understood. Certain facts concerning the buying of 
fish must also be kept in mind. For instance, in canned fish, almost 
all the bones, skin, and other inedible parts, except the tails, heads, 
and fins of very small fish, have been removed before packing, indi¬ 
cating that practically all the material purchased is edible. In the 
case of fresh fish, a large percentage of what is bought must be 
wasted in preparation and in eating, the percentage of waste varying 
from 5 to 45 per cent. 

15. Digestibility of Fish. —The food value of any food is 
an important item when its usefulness as a food is taken into account, 
but of equal importance is the manner in which the body uses the 
food; that is, whether it digests the food with ease or with diffi¬ 
culty. Therefore, when the value of fish as a food is to be deter¬ 
mined, its digestibility must receive definite consideration. As has 
already been explained, much depends on the cooking of the food 


13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


in question. On the whole, fish is found to be more easily digested 
than meat, with the exception perhaps of a few kinds or certain 
cuts. That physicians recognize this characteristic is evidenced by 
the fact that fish is often used in the feeding of invalids or sick 
people when meat is not permitted. 

1(>. 1 he ease with which fish is digested is influenced largely by 

the quantity of fat it contains, for this fat, acting in identically the 
same way as the fat of meat, has the effect of slowing the digestion 
that is carried on in the stomach. It follows, then, that with possibly 
one or two exceptions the kinds of fish most easily digested are 
those which are lean. 

1 * • In addition to the correct cooking of fish and the presence 
of fat, a factor that largely influences the digestibility of this food is 
the length of the fibers of the flesh. It will be remembered that the 
parts of an animal having long fibers are tougher and less easily 
digested than those having short fibers. This applies with equal 
force in the case of fish. Its truth is evident when it is known that 
cod, a lean fish, is digested with greater difficulty than some of the 
fat fish because of the length and toughness of its fibers. This, 
however, is comparative, and it must not be thought that fish on the 
whole is digested with difficulty. 

18. Another factor that influences the digestibility of fish is the 
salting of it. Whether fish is salted dry or in brine, the salt hardens 
the fibers and tissues. While the salt acts as a preservative in caus¬ 
ing this hardening, it, at the same time, makes the fish preserved in 
this manner a little more difficult to digest. This slight difference 
need scarcely be considered so far as the normal adult is concerned, 
but in case of children or persons whose digestion is not entirely 
normal its effect is likely to be felt. 


PURCHASE AND CARE OF FISH 

10. Purchase of Fish. —The housewife has much to do with 
the market price of fish and the varieties that are offered for sale, 
for these are governed by the demand created by her. The fisher¬ 
man’s catch depends on weather conditions, the season, and other 
uncertain factors. If the kinds of fish he secures are not what the 
housewife demands, they either will not be sent to market or will go 



8 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


begging on the market for want of purchasers. Such a state of 
affairs should not exist, and it would not if every housewife were 

TABLE II 


NAMES, SEASONS, AND USES OF FRESH FISH 


Name of Fish 

Season 

Method of Cookery 

Bass, black. 

. .All the year. 

. Fried, baked 

Bass, sea. 

. .All the year. 

. Baked, broiled, fried 

Bass, striped . 

. .All the year. 

. Baked, broiled, fried 

Bass, lake. 

..June 1 to January 1. 

. Baked, broiled, fried 

Bluefish . 

.. May 1 to November 1... 

. Baked, broiled 

Butterfish . 

.. October 1 to May 1. 

.Fried, sauted 

Carp. 

..July 1 to November 1... 

.Baked, broiled, fried 

Catfish. 

. .All the year. 

.Fried, sauted 

Codfish . 

. .All the year.- 

[Boiled, fried, sauted, 
[ baked, broiled 

Eels . 

,. An the year. 

.Fried, boiled, baked 

Flounder. 

,. All the year. 

. Sauted, fried, baked 

Haddock. 

, .All the year. 

. Steamed, boiled, fried 

Halibut . 

. .All the year. 

. Boiled, fried, creamed 

Herring. 

,. October 1 to May 1. 

. Sauted, fried, broiled 

Kingfish . 

. May 1 to November 1... 

. Boiled, steamed, baked 

Mackerel. 

. April 1 to October 1... ,| 

("Baked, broiled, boiled, 
fried 

Perch, fresh water. 

. September 1 to June 1... 

l 

. FYied, broiled 

Pike, or pickerel, fresh 
water . 

ljune 1 to January 1. 

J 

.Fried, broiled, baked 

Porgies, salt water. 

.June 15 to October 15.... 

. Fried, sauted 

Red snapper. 

.October 1 to April 1. 

. Boiled, steamed 

Salmon, Kennebec. 

.June 1 to October 1.. 

. Broiled, baked, boiled 

Salmon, Oregon. 

.October 1 to June 1. 

. Broiled, baked, boiled 

Shad . 

.January 1 to June 1. 

.Baked, broiled, fried 

Shad roe. 

.January 1 to June 1. 

.Broiled, fried 

Sheepshead . 

.June 1 to September 15... 

.Boiled, fried 

Smelts . 

.August 15 to April 15... 

. Fried, sauted 

Sole, English. 

.November 1 to May 1_ 

. Baked, broiled, fried 

Sunfish . 

.May 1 to December 1.... 

Fried, sauted 

Trout, fresh water. 

.April 1 to September l..j 

Baked, broiled, fried, 
boiled, sauted 

Weakfish, or sea trout... 

.May 15 to October 15.... 

Baked, broiled 

Whitebait . 

.May 1 to April 1 . 

Fried, sauted 

Whitefish, fresh water.. 

.November 1 to March 1 j 

Baked, fried, sauted, 
broiled 


to buy the kind of fish that is plentiful in her home market. So 
that she may become familiar with the varieties that the market 
affords, she should carefully study Tables II and III, which give 


















































§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


9 


the names, seasons, and uses of both fresh fish and salt and smoked 
fish. With the information given in these tables well in mind, she 
will be able not only to select the kind she wants, but to cooperate 
better with dealers. 

TABLE III 

NAMES, SEASONS, AND USES OP SALT AND SMOKED FISH 


Name of Fish 


Season 
Salt Fish 


Anchovies . 

.. All the year. 

Codfish, dried .. 

.. All the year. 

Herring, pickled_ 

.. All the year. 

Mackerel. 

.. All the year. 

Salmon, salt. 

.. All the year. 


Smoked Fish 

Haddock, or finnan 
haddie . ... 

| October 15 to April 1. 

Halibut . 

.. October 1 to April 1.. 

Herring. 

.. All the year.j 

Mackerel. 

1 

..October 1 to November 1. 

Smoked salmon .... 

.. All the year.. 

Shad. 

..October 1 to May 1.. 

Sturgeon . 

.. October 1 to May 1. 

Whitefish . 

.. October 1 to May 1. 


Method of Cookery 

Served as a relish, stuffed 
with various highly 
seasoned mixtures, used 
as flavor for sauce 


Baked, broiled, fried 
Served as a relish wit 
cooking 


Baked, boiled, fried 
Baked, boiled, fried 
Baked, boiled, fried 


20 . Another point to be considered in the purchase of fish is the 
size. Some fish, such as halibut and salmon, are so large that they 





Fig. 1 

must usually be cut into slices or steaks to permit the housewife to 
purchase the quantity she requires for immediate use. Other fish are 
of such size that one is sufficient for a meal, and others are so small 


[2] 






























10 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


that several must be purchased to meet the requirements. An idea 
of the difference in the size of fish can be gained from Figs. 1 and 2. 
The larger fish in Fig. 1 is a medium-sized whitefish and the smaller 
one is a smelt. Fish about the size of smelts lend themselves readily 
to frying and sauteing, whereas the larger kinds, like whitefish, may 
be prepared to better advantage by baking either with or without 
suitable stuffing. The larger fish in Fig. 2 is a carp and the smaller 
one is a pike. Much use is made of pike, but carp has been more 
shunned than sought after. However, when carp is properly cooked, 
it is a very palatable food, and, besides, it possesses high food value. 

21. In the purchase of fish, the housewife, provided she is not 
obliged to have fish for a particular day, will do well also to get 
away from the one-day-a-week purchasing of fish; that is, if she is 



Fig. 2 

not obliged to serve fish on Friday, she should endeavor to serve it 
on some other day. Even twice a week is not too often. If such a 
plan were followed out, fishermen would be able to market their 
catch when it is procured and the waste of fish or the necessity for 
keeping it until a particular day would be overcome. 

22. Another way in which the housewife can help herself in 
the selection of fish is to become familiar with all the varieties of 
edible fish caught in or near her community. When she has done 
this, it will be a splendid plan for her to give those with which she 
is unfamiliar a trial. She will be surprised at the many excellent 
varieties that are obtained in her locality and consequently come 
to her fresher than fish that has to be shipped long distances. 

23. Freshness of Fish. —In the purchase of fish, the house¬ 
wife should not permit herself to be influenced by any prejudice 



FISH AND SHELL FISH 


11 


§ 1 Q 
-Lo 

she may have as to the name or the appearance of the fish. How¬ 
ever, too much attention cannot be paid to its freshness. 

Several tests can be applied to fish to determine whether or not it 
is fresh; therefore, when a housewife is in doubt, she should make 
an effort to apply them. Fish should not give off any offensive odor. 
The eyes should be bright and clear, not dull nor sunken. The gills 
should have a bright-red color, and there should be no blubber show- 
ing. Ihe flesh should be so firm that no dent will be made when it is 
touched with the finger. Fish may also be tested for freshness by 
placing it in a pan of water; if it sinks, it may be known to be 
fresh, but if it floats it is not fit for use. 

24:, Care of Fisli in the Home. —If fish is purchased in 
good condition, and every effort should be made to see that it is, the 
responsibility of its care in the home until it is presented to the family 
as a cooked dish rests on the housewife. If, upon reaching the 
housewife, it has not been cleaned, it should be cleaned at once. In 
case it has been cleaned either by the fish dealer or the housewife 
and cannot be cooked at once, it should be looked over carefully, 
immediately washed in cold water, salted slightly inside and out, 
placed in a covered enamel or porcelain dish, and then put where it 
will keep as cold as possible. If a refrigerator is used, the fish 
should be put in the compartment from which odors cannot be 
carried to foods in the other compartments. In cold weather, an 
excellent plan is to put the fish out of doors instead of in the 
refrigerator, for there it will remain sufficiently cold without the use 
of ice. However, the best and safest way is to cook the fish at once, 
so that storing it for any length of time after its delivery will not be 
necessary. 

Salt and smoked fish do not, of course, require the same care as 
fresh fish. However, as many of these varieties are strong in flavor, 
it is well to weaken their flavor before cooking them by soaking them 
or, if possible, by parboiling them. 


PREPARATION OF FISH FOR COOKING 
25. Cleaning- Fish. —Fish is usually prepared for cooking at 
the market where it is purchased, but frequently a fish comes into 
the home just as it has been caught. In order to prepare such a fish 
properly for cooking, the housewife must understand how to clean 
it. The various steps in cleaning fish are illustrated in Figs. 3 to 6. 



12 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


The first step consists in removing the scales. To do this, place the 
fish on its side, as shown in Fig. 3, grasp it firmly by the tail, and 



Fig. 3 


then with the cutting edge of a knife, preferably a dull one, scrape 
off the scales by quick motions of the knife toward the head of the 
fish. When one side has been scraped clean, or scaled , as this opera¬ 
tion is called, turn the fish over and scale the other side. 

With the fish scaled, proceed to remove the entrails. As shown 



Fig. 4 

in Fig. 4, cut a slit in the belly from the head end to the vent, using 
a sharp knife. Run the opening up well toward the head, as Fig. 5 













§ 13 FISH AND SHELL FISH 13 

shows, and then through the opening formed draw out the entrails 
with the fingers. 

If the head is to be removed, it should be cut off at this time. 


Fig. 6 

more for an ornament than for any other reason. To remove the 
head, slip a sharp knife under the gills as far as possible, as Fig. 6 


Fig. 5 

When a fish is to be baked or prepared in some other way in which 
the head may be retained, it is allowed to remain on, but it is kept 













14 FISH AND SHELL FISH §13 




shows, and then cut it off in such a way as not to remove with it any 
of the body of the fish. 

Whether the head is removed or not, make sure that the cavity 
formed by taking out the entrails is perfectly clean. Then wash the 

fish with cold water and, 
if desired, cut off the 
fins and tail, although 
this is not usually done. 
The fish, which is now 
properly prepared, may 
be cooked at once or 
placed in the refrigera¬ 
tor until time for cook¬ 


ing. 


Fig. 7 


26. 

In the 


Boning Fish. 

preparation of 


some kinds of fish, it is often desired to bone the fish; that is, to 
remove the backbone and the ribs. Figs. 7 to 10 show the various 
steps in the process of boning. After the fish has been thoroughly 
cleaned, insert a sharp-pointed knife in the back where it is cut from 
the head, as shown in 
Fig. 7, and loosen the 
backbone at this place. 

Then, as in Fig. 8, slip 
the knife along the ribs 
away from the backbone 
on both sides. After 
getting the bone well 
loosened at the end, cut 
it from the flesh all the 
way down to the tail, as 
shown in Fig. 9. When 
thus separated from the 
flesh, the backbone and the ribs, which comprise practically all the 
bones in a fish, may be lifted out intact, as is shown in Fig. 10. 


Fig. 8 


27. Skinning Fish. —Some kinds of fish, especially those 
having no scales, such as flounder, catfish, and eels, are made more 
palatable by being skinned. To skin a fish, cut a narrow strip of the 
skin along the spine from the head to the tail, as shown in Fig. 11. 






FISH AND SHELL FISH 


15 


§13 



At this opening, loosen the skin on one side where it is fastened to 
the bony part of the fish 
and then, as in Fig. 12, 
draw it off around to¬ 
ward the belly, working 
carefully so as not to 
tear the flesh. Some¬ 
times it is a good plan to 
use a knife for this pur¬ 
pose, working the skin 
loose from the flesh with 
the knife and at the 
same time pulling the 
skin with the other hand. After removing the skin from one side, 



Fig. 10 



turn the fish and take off the skin from the other side in the same 

way. Care should be 
taken to clean the fish 
properly before attempt¬ 
ing to skin it. If the fish 
is frozen, it should first 
be thawed in cold water. 

28. Filleting’Fish. 

As many recipes require 
fish to be cut into fillets, 
that is, thick, flat slices 
from which the bone is 
removed, it is well for the housewife to understand just how to 





















16 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


accomplish this part of the preparation. Figs. 13 to 15 show the 
filleting of a flounder. While this process varies somewhat in the 



Fig. 12 

different varieties of fish, the usual steps are the ones here outlined. 
After thoroughly cleaning the flounder and removing the skin, lay 
the fish out flat and cut the flesh down through the center from the 

head end to the tail, as 
shown in Fig. 13. Then, 
with a knife, work each 
half of the flesh loose 
from the bones, as in 
Fig. 14. With these two 
pieces removed, turn the 
fish over, cut the flesh 
down through the center, 
and separate it from the 
bones in the same man¬ 
ner as before. If a meat 
board is on hand, it is a 
good plan to place the 
fish on such a board be¬ 
fore removing the flesh. At the end of the filleting process, the 
flounder should appear as shown in Fig. 15, the long, narrow strips 
on the right being the flesh and that remaining on the board being 
the bones intact. The strips thus produced may be cut into pieces 
of any preferred size. 



Fig. 13 













13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


IT 


RECIPES FOR FISH AND FISH ACCOMPANIMENTS 


METHODS OF COOKING FISH 

29. As Tables II and III show, practically all methods of cook¬ 
ery are applicable in the cooking of fish. For instance, fish may be 
boiled, steamed, baked, fried, broiled, sauted, and, in addition, 
used for various kinds of bisques, chowders, and numerous other 
made dishes. The effect 
of these different meth¬ 
ods is exactly the same 
on fish as on meat, 
since the two foods are 
the same in general con¬ 
struction. The cookery 
method to select depends 
largely on the size, kind, 
quality, and flavor of 
the fish. Just as an old 
chicken with well-devel¬ 
oped muscles is not suit¬ 
able for broiling, so a very large fish should not be broiled unless it 
can be cut into slices, steaks, or thin pieces. Such a fish is usually 



Fig. 14 



Fig. IS 


either stuffed and baked or baked without stuffing, but when it is 
cut into slices, the slices may be sauted, fried, broiled, or steamed. 

Some varieties of fish are more or less tasteless. These should 
be prepared by a cookery method that will improve their flavor, or 
if the cooking fails to add flavor, a highly seasoned or highly 


[31 











18 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


flavored sauce should be served with them. The acid of vinegar 
or lemon seems to assist in bringing out the flavor of fish, so when 
a sauce is not used, a slice of lemon is often served with the fish. 


RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES AND STUFFINGS 

30. As many of the recipes for fish call for sauce and stuffing, 
recipes for these accompaniments are taken up before the methods 
of cooking fish are considered. This plan will make it possible for 
the beginner to become thoroughly familiar with these accompani¬ 
ments and thus be better prepared to carry out the recipes for cook¬ 
ing fish. 

31. Sauces for Fish.— Sauces are generally served with fish 
to improve their flavor and increase their nutritive value. Some 
kinds of fish, such as salmon, shad, butterfish, Spanish mackerel, 
etc., contain more than 6 per cent, of fat, but as many of the fish 
that are used for food contain less than this, they are somewhat dry 
and are improved considerably by the addition of a well-seasoned 
and highly flavored sauce. Then, too, some fish contain very few 
extractives, which, when present, as has been learned, are the source 
of flavor in food. As some of the methods of cooking, boiling in 
particular, dissolve the few extractives that fish contain and cause 
the loss of much of the nutritive material, it becomes almost neces¬ 
sary to serve a sauce with fish so prepared, if a tasty dish is to be the 
result. 

32. The sauces that may be used with fish are numerous, and 
the one to select depends somewhat on the cookery method employed 
and the preference of those to whom the fish is served. Among the 
recipes that follow will be found sauces suitable for any method 
that may be used in the preparation of fish. A little experience with 
them will enable the housewife to determine the ones that are most 
satisfactory as to both flavor and nutritive value for the different 
varieties of fish she uses and the methods of cookery she employs. 

Lemon Cream Sauce 

2 Tb. butter Salt and pepper 

2 Tb. flour Juice of 1 lemon or 1 Tb. 

1 c. thin cream vinegar 

Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and continue 
stirring until the two are well mixed. Add to this the thin cream and 



13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


19 


stir until the mixture is thick and boils. Season with salt, pepper, 
and the juice of the lemon or the vinegar. 

Spanish Sauce 


2 Tb. butter -§ tsp. pepper 

1 slice of onion 1 c. milk 

2 Tb. flour £ c. tomato puree 

1 tsp. salt i c. chopped pimiento 

Brown the butter with the onion, add the flour, salt, and pepper, 
and stir until well blended. Add the milk and allow the mixture to 


cook until it thickens. To this add the tomato and pimiento. Heat 
thoroughly and serve. 

Nut Sauce 

1 Tb. butter £ tsp. salt 

2 Tb. flour -J tsp. pepper 

2 Tb. peanut butter 1 c. meat stock 
Melt the butter and add the flour and peanut butter. When they 
are well mixed, allow them to brown slightly. Add the salt and 
pepper to this mixture and pour into it the meat stock. Bring to 
the boiling point and serve. 


Horseradish Sauce 


^ c. cream i tsp. salt 

1 c. boiled salad dressing J tsp. paprika 

2 Tb. grated horseradish £ tsp. mustard 

Whip the cream until stiff; then add the salad dressing, horse¬ 
radish, salt, paprika, and mustard. When well blended, the sauce 
is ready to serve. 

Egg Sauce 

2 Tb. butter -J tsp. pepper 
2 Tb. flour 2 Tb. vinegar 

f c. milk 1 egg 

i tsp. salt 1 Tb. chopped parsley 

Melt the butter, add the flour, and stir until well blended. Add 
the milk, salt, and pepper, and cook until the mixture thickens. To 
this add the vinegar, the egg chopped fine, and the chopped parsley. 
Heat thoroughly and serve. 

Tomato Sauce 

2 c. tomato puree 2 Tb. butter 
1 small onion, sliced 2 Tb. flour 
1 bay leaf 1 tsp. salt 

6 cloves i tsp. pepper 

Strain stewed tomato to make the puree. Put this over the fire 
in a saucepan with the sliced onion, the bay leaf, and the cloves. 


20 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


Cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Strain to remove the onion, bay 
leaf, and cloves. Melt the butter, add the flour, salt, and pepper, 
and into this pour the hot tomato. Cook until it thickens and serve. 
Mushroom Sauce 


2 Tb. butter 
1 slice of carrot 
1 slice of onion 
Sprig of parsley 
\ tsp. salt 


1 tsp. pepper 

2 Tb. flour 

1 c. meat stock 
! c. mushrooms 

2 tsp. lemon juice 


Put the butter in a frying pan with the carrot, onion, parsley, salt, 
and pepper, and cook together until brown. Remove the onion, 
carrot, and parsley. Stir in the flour, brown it slightly, and then add 
the meat stock. Cook together until thickened. Just before remov¬ 
ing from the fire, add the mushrooms, chopped into fine pieces, and 
the lemon juice. Allow it to heat thoroughly and then serve. 

Drawn-Butter Sauce 


1 c. butter J tsp. pepper 

2 Tb. flour 1| c. hot water 

i tsp. salt 2 hard-cooked eggs 

Melt the butter, and add the flour, salt, and pepper. Pour into 
this the hot water, and cook until the mixture thickens. Slice the 
eggs into J-inch slices and add these to the sauce just before remov¬ 
ing from the stove. 


33. Stuffing for Fish.— As has been mentioned, fish that is 
to be baked is often stuffed before it is put into the oven. The 
stuffing not only helps to preserve the shape of the fish, but also 
provides a means of extending the flavor of the fish to a starchy 
food, for bread or cracker crumbs are used in the preparation of 
most stuffings. Three recipes for fish stuffing are here given, the 
first being made of bread crumbs and having hot water for the 
liquid, the second of cracker crumbs and having milk for the liquid, 
and the third of bread crumbs and having stewed tomato for the 
liquid. 

Fish Stuffing No. 1 

i c. butter 1 tsp. onion juice 

i c. hot water 1 Tb. chopped parsley 

\ tsp. salt 2 c. fine bread crumbs 

i tsp. pepper 

Melt the butter in the hot water, add the salt, pepper, onion juice, 
and parsley, and pour over the crumbs. Mix thoroughly and use 
to stuff the fish. 


13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


21 


Fish Stuffing No. 2 

1 c. milk J c. melted butter 

2 c. cracker crumbs 1 Tb. chopped parsley 

i tsp. salt 1 egg 

i tsp. pepper 

Warm the milk and add it to the crumbs, together with the salt, 
pepper, melted butter, and parsley. To this mixture, add the beaten 
egg. When well mixed, use as stuffing for fish. 

Fish Stuffing No. 3 

2 Tb. butter J tsp. pepper 

1 Tb. finely chopped onion 1 Tb. chopped sour pickles 
1 Tb. chopped parsley J c. stewed tomato 

i tsp. salt 2 c. stale bread crumbs 

Melt the butter and add the onion, parsley, salt, pepper, pickles, 
and tomato. Pour this mixture over the crumbs, mix all thoroughly, 
and use to stuff the fish. If the dressing seems to require more liquid 
than the stewed tomato, add a little water. 


RECIPES FOR FRESH FISH 

34. Boiled Fish. —Boiling extracts flavor and, to some extent, 
nutriment from the food to which this cookery method is applied. 
Therefore, unless the fish to be cooked is one that has a very strong 
flavor and that will be improved by the loss of flavor, it should not 
be boiled. Much care should be 
exercised in boiling fish, because 
the meat is usually so tender that 
it is likely to boil to pieces or to 
fall apart. 

35. A utensil in which fish 
can be boiled or steamed very 
satisfactorily is shown in Fig. 16. 

This fish boiler, as it is called, is a long, narrow, deep pan with a 
cover and a rack on which the fish is placed. Attached to each end 
of the rack is an upright strip, or handle, that permits the rack con¬ 
taining the fish to be lifted out of the pan and the fish thus removed 
without breaking. To assist further in holding the fish together 
while it is cooking, a piece of gauze or cheesecloth may be wrapped 
around the fish before it is put into the pan. 






22 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


3G. When a fish is to be boiled, clean it and, if desired, remove 
the head. Pour sufficient boiling water to cover the fish well into 
the vessel in which it is to be cooked, and add salt in the proportion 
of 1 teaspoonful to each quart of water. Tie the fish in a strip of 
cheesecloth or gauze if necessary, and lower it into the vessel of 
slowly boiling water. Allow the fish to boil until it may be easily 
pierced with a fork; then take it out of the water and remove the 
cloth, provided one is used. Serve with a well-seasoned sauce, such 
as lemon cream, horseradish, etc. 

37. Boiled Cod. —A fish that lends itself well to boiling is 
fresh cod. In fact, codfish prepared according to this method and 
served with a sauce makes a very appetizing dish. 

Scale, clean, and skin a fresh cod and wrap it in a single layer of 
gauze or cheesecloth. Place it in a kettle or a pan of freshly boiling 
water to which has been added 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart 
of water. Boil until the fish may be easily pierced with a fork, take 
from the water, and remove the gauze or cheesecloth carefully so 
as to keep the fish intact. Serve with sauce and slices of lemon. 

38. Steamed Fish. —The preparation of fish by steaming is 
practically the same as that by boiling, and produces a dish similar 
to boiled fish. The only difference is that steamed fish is suspended 
over the water and is cooked by the steam that rises instead of 
being cooked directly in the water. Because the fish is not sur¬ 
rounded by water, it does not lose its nutriment and flavor so readily 
as does boiled fish. 

If fish is to be cooked by steaming, first clean it thoroughly. 
Wrap in a strip of gauze or cheesecloth and place in a steamer. 
Steam until tender, and then remove the cloth and place the fish on 
a platter. As steaming does not add flavor, it is usually necessary 
to supply flavor to fish cooked in this way by adding a sauce of some 
kind. 


39. Broiled Fish. —The best way in which to cook small fish, 
thin strips of fish, or even good-sized fish that are comparatively 
thin when they are split open is to broil them. Since in this method 
of cooking the flavor is entirely retained, it is especially desirable 
for any fish of delicate flavor. 

To broil fish, sear them quickly over a very hot fire and then cook 
them more slowly until they are done, turning frequently to prevent 


13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


23 


burning. As most fish, and particularly the small ones used for 
broiling, contain almost no fat, it is necessary to supply fat for 
successful broiling and improvement of flavor. It is difficult to add 
fat to the fish while it is broiling, so, as a rule, the fat is spread over 
the surface of the fish after it has been removed from the broiler. 
The fat may consist of broiled strips of bacon or salt pork, or it may 
be merely melted butter or other fat. 

40 . Broiled Scrod With Potato Border. —Young cod that 
is split down the back and that has had the backbone removed with 
the exception of a small portion near the tail is known as scrod. 
Such fish is nearly always broiled. It may be served plain, but it is 
much more attractive when potatoes are combined with it in the 
form of an artistic border. 

To prepare this dish, broil the scrod according to the directions 
given in Art. 39 . Then place it on a hot platter and spread butter 
over it. Boil the desired number of potatoes until they are tender, 
and then force them through a ricer or mash them until they are 
perfectly fine. Season with salt, pepper, and butter, and add suffi¬ 
cient milk to make a paste that is a trifle stiffer than for mashed 
potatoes. If desired, raw eggs may also be beaten into the potatoes to 
serve as a part of the moisture. Fill a pastry bag with the potatoes 
thus prepared and press them through a rosette tube in any desired 
design on the platter around the fish. Bake in a hot oven until the 
potatoes are thoroughly heated and are browned slightly on the top. 

41 . Broiled Fresh Mackerel. —Probably no fish lends itself 
better to broiling than fresh mackerel, as the flesh of this fish is 
tender and contains sufficient fat to have a good flavor. To improve 
the flavor, however, strips of bacon are usually placed over the fish 
and allowed to broil with it. 

Clean and skin a fresh mackerel. Place the fish thus prepared in 
a broiler, and broil first on one side and then on the other. When 
seared all over, place strips of bacon over the fish and continue to 
broil until it is done. Remove from the broiler, season with salt and 
pepper, and serve. 

42 . Broiled Shad Roe. —The mass of eggs found in shad, as 
shown in Fig. 17, is known as the roe of shad. Roe may be pur¬ 
chased separately, when it is found in the markets from January 1 to 
June 1, or it may be procured from the fish itself. It makes a 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


24 

delicious dish when broiled, especially when it is rolled in fat and 
bread crumbs. 

Wash the roe that is to be used and dry it carefully between 
towels. Roll it in bacon fat or melted butter and then in fine crumbs. 



Fig. 17 


Place in a broiler, broil until completely done on one side, turn and 
then broil until entirely cooked on the other side. Remove from the 
broiler and pour melted butter over each piece. Sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, and serve hot. 

43. Baked Fish.— Good-sized fish, that is, fish weighing 4 or 
5 pounds, are usually baked. When prepared by this method, fish 
are very satisfactory if they are spread out on a pan, flesh side up, 

and baked in a very hot 
oven with sufficient fat 
to flavor them well. A 
fish of large size, how¬ 
ever, is especially deli¬ 
cious if its cavity is filled 
with a stuffing before it 
is baked. 

When a fish is to be 
stuffed, any desired 
stuffing is prepared and 
then filled into the fish 
in the manner shown in Fig. 18. With the cavity well filled, the 
edges of the fish are drawn together over the stuffing and sewed 
with a coarse needle and thread, as Fig. 19 shows. 

Whether the fish is stuffed or not, the same principles apply in its 
baking as apply in the roasting of meat; that is, the heat of a quick, 









§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


hot oven sears the flesh, keeps in the juices, and prevents the loss of 
flavor, while that of a slow oven causes the loss of much of the flavor 
and moisture and pro¬ 
duces a less tender dish. 

44. Often, in the 
baking of fish, it is 
necessary to add fat. 

This may be done by 
putting fat of some kind 
into the pan with the 
fish, by spreading strips 
of bacon over the fish, 
or by larding it. In the 
dry varieties of fish, 
larding, which is illus¬ 
trated in Fig. 20, proves very satisfactory, for it supplies the sub¬ 
stance in which the fish is most lacking. As will be observed, larding 
is done by inserting strips of bacon or salt pork that are about 3 
inches long and J inch thick into gashes cut into the sides of the fish. 

45. Baked Haddock.—As haddock is a good-sized fish, it is 
an especially suitable one for baking. However, it is a dry fish, so 



Fig. 19 



Fig. 20 


fat should be added to it to improve its flavor. Any of the methods 
suggested in Art. 44 may be used to supply the fat that this fish 
needs. 

When haddock is to be baked, select a 4- or 5-pound fish, clean it 
thoroughly, boning it if desired, and sprinkle it inside and out with 








26 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


salt. Fill the cavity with any desired stuffing and sew up. Place in 
a dripping pan, and add some bacon fat or a piece of salt pork, or 
place several slices of bacon around it. Bake in a hot oven for about 
1 hour. After it has been in the oven for about 15 minutes, baste 
with the fat that will be found in the bottom of the pan and continue 
to baste every 10 minutes until the fish is done. Remove from the 
pan to a platter, garnish with parsley and slices of broiled bacon, and 
serve with any desired sauce. 

46. Baked Halibut. —Because of its size, halibut is cut into 
slices and sold in the form of steaks. It is probably one of the most 
economical varieties of fish to buy, for very little bone is contained 
in a slice and the money that the housewife expends goes for almost 
solid meat. Halibut slices are often sauted, but they make a deli¬ 
cious dish when baked with tomatoes and flavored with onion, 
lemon, and bay leaf, as described in the accompanying recipe. 

Baked Halibut 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

2 c. tomatoes i tsp. pepper 

Few slices onion 2 thin slices bacon 
1 bay leaf 1 Tb. flour 

1 tsp. salt 2 lb. halibut steak 

Heat the tomatoes, onion, and bay leaf in water. Add the salt 
and pepper and cook for a few minutes. Cut the bacon into small 
squares, try it out in a pan, and into this fat stir the flour. Pour 
this into the hot mixture, remove the bay leaf, and cook until the 
mixture thickens. Put the steaks into a baking dish, pour the sauce 
over them, and bake in a slow oven for about 45 minutes. Remove 
with the sauce to a hot platter and serve. 

47. Baked Fillets of Wbitefish. —When whitefish of 
medium size can be secured, it is very often stuffed and baked whole, 
but variety can be had by cutting it into fillets before baking it. 
Besides producing a delicious dish, this method of preparation elimi¬ 
nates carving at the table, for the pieces can be cut the desired size 
for serving. 

Prepare fillets of whitefish according to the directions for filleting 
fish in Art. 28. Sprinkle each one with salt and pepper, and dip it 
first into beaten egg and then into bread crumbs. Brown some 
butter in a pan, place the fish into it, and set the pan in a hot oven. 
Bake until the fillets are a light brown, or about 30 minutes. Remove 
to a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve with any desired sauce. 




Fig. 22 

the taste. The fish is baked on the plank and then surrounded with 
a border of potatoes, the fish and potatoes making an excellent food. 


§ 13 FISH AND SHELL FISH 27 

48. Fillet of Flounder.—In appearance, flounder is not so 
attractive as many other fish, but it is a source of excellent flesh and 


Fig. 21 


is therefore much used. A very appetizing way in which to prepare 
flounder is to fillet it and prepare it according to the accompanying 
recipe, when it will appear as in Fig. 21. 

Secure a flounder and fillet it in the manner explained in Art. 28. 
Cut each fillet into halves, making eight pieces from one flounder. 
Cut small strips of salt pork or bacon, roll the pieces of flounder 
around these, and fasten with a toothpick. Place in a baking dish 
with a small quantity of water, and bake in a hot oven until a good 
brown. Serve hot. 


49. Planked Fish.—Like planked steak, planked fish, which 
is illustrated in Fig. 22, is a dish that appeals to the eye and pleases 










28 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


To prepare planked fish, thoroughly clean and bone a medium- 
size whitefish, shad, haddock, or any desired fish. Grease a plank 
and place the fish on it. Lay some strips of bacon across the top 
of the fish, place in a hot oven, and bake for about 30 minutes or a 
little longer if necessary. Boil potatoes and prepare them for piping 
by mashing them, using 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, and one egg to each 2 cupfuls of potato. Then, with a rosette 
pastry tube, pipe a border of potatoes around the edge of the plank, 
so that it will appear as in Fig. 22. Likewise, pipe rosettes of pota¬ 
toes on the strips of bacon placed on top of the fish. Then replace 
the plank with the fish and potatoes in the oven, and bake until the 
potatoes are brown. Garnish with parsley and serve. 

50. Fried Fish. —Very small fish or slices of larger fish are 
often fried in deep fat. When they are prepared in this way, they 
are first dipped into beaten egg and then into crumbs or corn meal to 
form a coating that will cling to their surface. Coated with such 
a material, they are fried in deep fat until the surface is nicely 
browned. After being removed from the fat, they should be drained 
well before serving. 

51. Fried Perch.— When fried in deep fat, perch is found to 
be very appetizing. To prepare it in this way, secure a perch and 
scale and clean it. Cut it crosswise into 2-inch strips, roll each piece 
in flour, and fry in deep fat until nicely browned. Serve hot with 
lemon or with a sauce of some kind. 

52. Fried Eel. —If an appetizing way to cook eel is desired, 
it will be found advisable to fry it in deep fat. When it is to be 
cooked in this way, skin and clean the eel and cut it into thick slices. 
Pour some vinegar over the slices, sprinkle them with salt and 
pepper, and allow them to stand for several hours. Remove the 
pieces from the vinegar, dip each one into slightly beaten egg and 
then into flour, and fry in deep fat until well browned. Serve plain 
or with a sauce. 

53. Sauted Fish. —Without doubt, the most popular way to 
prepare fish is to saute them. This method may be applied to prac¬ 
tically the same kinds of fish that are fried or broiled, and it is 
especially desirable for the more tasteless varieties. It consists in 
browning the fish well in a small quantity of fat, first on one side 
and then on the other. If fat of good flavor is used, such as bacon 


13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


29 


or ham fat, the flavor of the fish will be very much improved. 
Before sauteing, the fish or pieces of fish are often dipped into 
slightly beaten egg and then rolled in flour, very fine cracker crumbs, 
or corn meal, or the egg is omitted and they are merely covered with 
the dry, starchy material. The effect of this method of cooking is 
very similar to that of deep-fat frying, except that the outside tissues 
are apt to become very hard from the application of the hot fat 
because of the coating that is generally used. Since most fish breaks 
very easily, it is necessary that it be handled carefully in this method 
in order that the pieces may be kept whole. 

54. Sauted Smelts. —To be most satisfactory, smelts are 
generally sauted, as shown in Fig. 23. Fish of this kind are pre¬ 
pared for cooking by cutting off the heads and removing the entrails 
through the opening thus made; or, if it is desired to leave the heads 



Fig. 23 


on, the entrails may be removed through the gill or a small slit cut 
below the mouth. At any rate, these fish are not cut open as are 
most other fish. 

With the fish thus prepared, roll them in fine cracker crumbs and 
saute them in melted butter until they are nicely browned. Serve 
with slices of lemon. 

55. Sauted Halibut Steak. —Slices of halibut, when firm in 
texture and cut about f inch thick, lend themselves very well to 
sauteing. Secure the required number of such slices and sprinkle 
each with salt and pepper. Then spread melted butter over each 
steak, and roll it in fine crumbs. Place fat in a frying pan, allow 
it to become hot, and saute the halibut in this until well browned. 

56. Sauted Pickerel.— A variety of fresh-water fish that finds 
favor with most persons is pickerel. When this fish is to be sauted, 










30 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


scale and clean it and cut it crosswise into 2-inch strips. Then roll 
each piece in flour, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and saute the 
slices in hot fat. When one side is sufficiently brown, turn and 
brown on the other side. 

57. Stewed Fish.— Like boiling, stewing extracts flavor and 
nutriment from fish. The process differs, however, in that the fish 
is cooked gently by simmering. This cookery method is employed 
for fish that is inclined to be tough. Usually, vegetables, such as 
carrots and onions, are cooked with the fish in order to impart flavor. 
To prevent the fish from falling apart, it may be wrapped in cheese¬ 
cloth or gauze. 

58. Stewed Fresh Herring. —When fresh herring can be 
obtained, it can be made into a delicious dish by stewing it with 
onions, parsley, and carrots. In this method of preparation, the 
herring should not be permitted to stew rapidly; it will become more 
tender if it simmers gently. As herring are rather small fish, weigh¬ 
ing only about \ pound, it will usually be necessary to obtain more 
than one for a meal. 

Clean the required number of fresh herring, place them in a sauce¬ 
pan, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Brown some slices of 
onion in butter, and add the same number of slices of carrots and a 
generous quantity of parsley. Add enough boiling water to these 
vegetables to cover them and the fish, and pour both over the fish. 
Place all on the fire and simmer gently until the fish is tender. 
Remove the fish from the water and serve. The vegetables are used 
merely to add flavor, and they will have practically boiled away by 
the time the fish is cooked. 

59. Stewed Eel. —Eel is delicious when stewed. When allowed 
to simmer slowly with several slices of onion and a little parsley, it 
becomes both tasty and tender. 

Skin and clean the eel that is to be stewed, remove all the fat, and 
cut into pieces about 2 inches long. Season well with salt and pepper 
and place in a saucepan with several slices of onion, 1 tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley, and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Add enough 
cold water to cover well, and allow the eel to simmer gently until it is 
tender enough to be pierced with a fork. Remove from the water 
and serve hot. 


§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


31 


RECIPES FOR SALT AND SMOKED FISH 

00. Place of Salt and Smoked Fisli in the Diet. —In 
regions where fresh fish cannot be obtained or in seasons when they 
are scarce everywhere, the housewife will do well to use salt and 
smoked fish. These varieties of fish not only will give her a chance 
to vary the diet, but will enable her to provide at a more economical 
price, food that, pound for pound, contains more nutriment than the 
same fish when fresh. While some of the varieties of smoked and 
salt fish may not be obtainable in all communities, the housewife will 
do much toward bringing the supply to her community by requesting 
them from the dealer. When a dealer knows that there is a demand 
for certain kinds, he will make an effort to secure the varieties 
wanted. 

Gl. Freshening 1 Salt and Smoked Fish. —The cooking of 
salt and smoked fish is not a difficult matter, but it always involves 
the freshening of the fish before any cooking method can be applied. 
This consists in placing the fish in a large quantity of water and 
allowing it to stand until enough of the salt has been extracted to 
suit the taste. Some kinds of fish are so salty that they require 
considerable soaking, whereas others require only a little freshening. 
However, it is usually advisable to change the water several times. 
If it is desired to hasten the extraction of the salt, the fish should 
be raised above the bottom of the vessel by means of a wire rack 
or several clean sticks. In the case of very thick fish, several gashes 
may be cut into the flesh to permit the salt to pass out more readily. 

G2. Creamed Codfish. —Since codfish is a rather dry fish, 
containing little fat, it is usually combined with some other food to 
make it more appetizing. In the case of creamed codfish, the cream 
sauce supplies the food substances in which the fish is lacking and at 
the same time provides a very palatable dish. When codfish is pre¬ 
pared in this way, boiled potatoes are usually served with it. 

To make creamed codfish, freshen the required amount of codfish 
by pouring lukewarm water over it. Shred the fish by breaking it 
into small pieces with the fingers. Pour off the water, add fresh 
warm water, and allow the fish to stand until it is not too salty. 
When it is sufficiently freshened, drain off all the water. Melt a 
little butter in a frying pan, add the fish, and saute until slightly 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


32 


§13 


browned. Make a medium white sauce and pour it over the codfish. 
Serve hot with boiled potatoes. 

63. Codfish Balls. —Another excellent way in which to serve 
codfish is to combine it with mashed potatoes, make these into balls, 
and fry them in deep fat. These give variety to meals and also 
afford an opportunity to serve a nutritious food. 

Freshen the codfish as explained in Art. 61, and then mince it 
very fine. Add an equal amount of freshly cooked hot potato that 
has been put through a potato ricer or mashed fine. Mix thoroughly 
and, if necessary, season with salt and pepper. Shape into balls and 
fry in deep fat. Drain well and serve hot. 

64. Sauted Salt Mackerel.— When an extremely tasty dish 
that will afford a change from the usual daily routine of meals is 
desired, sauted salt mackerel will be found very satisfactory. 

Freshen salt mackerel that is to be sauted by putting it into a 
saucepan and covering it with cold water. Place this over the fire, 
and allow the water to heat to almost the boiling point. Pour off 
the water, and saute the fish in butter or other fat until nicely 
browned. If desired, pour a small amount of thin cream over the 
mackerel just before removing it from the pan, allow this to heat, 
and serve it as a sauce with the mackerel. 

65. Baked Finnan PXaddie. —When haddock is cured by 
smoking, it is known as finnan haddie. As fish of this kind has con¬ 
siderable* thick flesh, it is very good for baking. Other methods of 
cookery may, of course, be applied to it, but none is more satisfac¬ 
tory than baking. 

To bake a finnan haddie, wash it in warm water and put it to soak 
in fresh warm water. After it has soaked for \ hour, allow it to 
come gradually to nearly the boiling point and then pour off the 
water. Place the fish in a baking pan, add a piece of butter, sprinkle 
with pepper, and pour a little water over it. Bake in a hot oven 
until it is nicely browned. Serve hot. 

66. Creamed Finnan Haddie. —The flavor of finnan haddie 
is such that this fish becomes very appetizing when prepared with a 
cream sauce. If, after combining the sauce with the fish, the fish is 
baked in the oven, an especially palatable dish is the result. 

To prepare creamed finnan haddie, freshen the fish and shred it into 
small pieces. Then measure the fish, put it into a baking dish, and 


§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


33 


pour an equal amount of white sauce over it. Sprinkle generously 
with crumbs and bake in a hot oven until the crumbs are browned. 
Serve hot. 

67. Boiled Salmon. —When smoked salmon can be secured, 
it makes a splendid fish for boiling. If it is cooked until tender and 
then served with a well-seasoned sauce, it will find favor with most 
persons. 

Freshen smoked salmon in warm water as much as seems neces¬ 
sary, remembering that the cooking to which it will be subjected will 
remove a large amount of the superfluous salt. Cover the salmon 
with hot water, and simmer slowly until it becomes tender. Remove 
from the water, pour a little melted butter over it, and serve with 
any desired sauce. 


RECIPES FOR CANNED FISH 


68. Canned Fish in the Diet. —As a rule, canned fish is a 
comparatively cheap food and there is no reason why the economical 
housewife should not make frequent use of the various kinds. It 
should be bought, however, from a reputable firm, in order that the 
greatest value may be obtained for the money spent. In addition, it 
should be used as soon as possible after the can has been opened; 
if all of it cannot be utilized at one time, it should be placed in a 
covered receptacle—not a metal one—and kept cold to prevent it 
from spoiling. Often canned fish can be served without any further 
preparation than removing it from the can. However, as some 
varieties, particularly salmon and tuna fish, are much used in the 
preparation of both cold and cooked dishes, several recipes are here 
given for these varieties. 


69. Creamed Tuna Fish. —Combining tuna fish with a cream 
sauce and serving it over toast makes a dish that is both delicate and 
palatable—one that will prove very satisfactory when something to 
take the place of meat in a light meal is desired. 

Creamed Tuna Fish 


(Sufficient to Serve Six) 


3 Tb. butter 
3 Tb. flour 
$ tsp. salt 
J tsp. pepper 

Melt the butter in a saucepan 


i tsp. paprika 
1^ c. hot milk 
1J c. tuna fish 
1 egg 

and add the flour, 


salt, pepper, and 


paprika. Stir well, pour in the milk, and when this has thickened 



34 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


add the tuna fish. Allow this to heat thoroughly in the sauce. Just 
before serving, add the slightly beaten egg and cook until this has 
thickened. Pour over toast and serve. 

70. Salmon Mold. —A change from the usual way of serving 
salmon can be had by making a salmon mold such as is illustrated in 
Fig. 24. Besides being a delicious dish and providing variety in the 
diet, salmon mold is very attractive. 

Salmon Mold 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

2 c. salmon i tsp. pepper 

2 Tb. vinegar 1 Tb. gelatine 
J tsp. salt 1J c. boiling water 

Remove all skin and bones from the salmon when it is taken from 
the can, and mince it thoroughly with a fork. Add the vinegar, salt, 



Fig. 24 


and pepper. Prepare the gelatine by dissolving it in the boiling 
water. Add the seasoned salmon to the prepared gelatine. With 
cold water, wet a ring-shaped mold having an open space in the 
center. Pour the salmon-and-gelatine mixture into this mold, and 
allow it to stand until it solidifies. Arrange a bed of lettuce leaves 
on a chop plate, turn the mold out on this, and fill the center with 
dressing. Serve at once. A very desirable dressing for this purpose 
is made as follows: 

Dressing for Salmon Mold 

1 c. cream 2 Tb. sugar 

2 Tb. vinegar 1 c. finely chopped cucumber 
^ tsp. salt 

Whip the cream until it is stiff, and add the vinegar, salt, and 
sugar. Fold into this the finely chopped cucumber. 







§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


4l, Salmon Patties. —Delicious patties can be made from 
salmon by combining it with bread crumbs and using a thick white 
sauce to hold the ingredients together. These may be either sauted 
in shallow fat or fried in deep fat. 

Salmon Patties 
(S ufficient to Serve Eight) 

2 c. finely minced salmon £ tsp. salt 

1 c. fresh bread crumbs J tsp. pepper 

1 c. thick white sauce Dry bread crumbs 

\\ ith the salmon, mix the fresh bread crumbs and the white sauce. 
Season with salt and pepper. Shape into round patties, roll in the 
dry bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat or saute in shallow fat. Serve 
hot with or without sauce. 

4 2. Creamed. Salmon With. Rice. —A creamed protein dish 
is always more satisfactory if it is served on some other food, par¬ 
ticularly one high in carbohydrate. When this is done, a better 
balanced dish is the result. Creamed salmon and rice make a very 
nutritious and appetizing combination. 

Creamed Salmon With Rice 
(S ufficient to Serve Six) 

1 c. salmon Steamed rice 

1 c. medium white sauce 

Break the salmon into moderately small pieces and carefully fold 
these into the hot white sauce. Serve this on a mound of hot 
steamed rice. 


RECIPES FOR LEFT-OVER FISH 

73. So as not to waste any food material, it is necessary that 
all left-over fish be utilized in some way. This is not so simple a 
matter as in the case of meat, because fish is one of the foods that 
are not popular as a left-over dish. Still fish left-overs can be used 
if a little thought is given to the matter. Of course, it is a wise plan 
to prepare only the quantity of fish that can be consumed at the meal 
for which it is cooked, but should any remain it should not be 
thrown away, for some use can be made of it. A point to remember, 
however, is that fish is not satisfactory in soup of any kind except a 
fish soup; therefore, bits of left-over fish may be added to only such 
soups as clam chowder or other fish chowder. 

Whether the fish has been boiled, steamed, baked, fried, sauted, 
or prepared in any other way, it may always be made into croquettes. 
When used for this purpose, all the bones should be carefully 



36 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


removed. These may be easily taken out after the fish has become 
cold. If the fish has been stuffed and part of the stuffing remains, 
it may be broken into pieces and used with the flesh of the fish. A 
recipe for croquettes in which fish is combined with rice follows. 

74. Fish. Croquettes. —If any quantity of left-over fish is on 
hand, it may be combined with rice to make very tasty croquettes. 

Fish Croquettes 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1J c. cold fish Salt and pepper 

1 c. cold steamed rice 1 egg 

1 c. thick white sauce Crumbs 

Mince the fish into small pieces, mix with the rice, and add the 
white sauce. Season with salt and pepper and shape into croquettes. 
Dip into slightly beaten egg, roll in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. 
Drain and serve with any desired sauce. 

75. Creamed Fish in Potato Nest. —Fish may also be com¬ 
bined with mashed potato to produce a most appetizing dish. Line 
a baking dish with hot mashed potato, leaving a good-sized hollow 
in the center. Into this pour creamed fish made by mixing equal 
proportions of left-over cold fish and white sauce. Season well with 
salt and pepper, sprinkle with crumbs, and dot the top with butter. 
Bake until the crumbs are brown. Serve hot. 


SHELL FISH 


NATURE, VARIETIES, AND USE OF SHELL FISH 

76. Besides the varieties of fish that have already been con¬ 
sidered, the general term fish also includes sliell fish.. Fish of this 
kind are different in structure from bony fish, for they are acquatic 
animals that are entirely or partly encased in shells. They include 
mollusks, or bivalves, such as oysters, clams, and scallops, and 
crustaceans, such as lobsters, crabs, and shrimp. 

77. The popularity of the edible varieties of mollusks and crus¬ 
taceans mentioned depends largely on whether they can be easily 
obtained and whether they are pleasing to the local or individual 
taste. As they are found in salt rivers, bays, and other shallow salt¬ 
water sources, their greatest use is among people living near the 
seashore, but they are much favored where they can be procured in 




§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


edible condition. They are not so cheap as many other fish foods; 
that is, a certain amount of money will not purchase so great a quan¬ 
tity of shell fish, lobster for instance, as some of the well-known 
varieties of fish proper, such as halibut or whitefish. Lobsters and 
crabs are usually more expensive than oysters and clams; conse¬ 
quently, they are used more often to provide a delicacy or to supply 
something more or less uncommon for a special meal. 

78. Several precautions should be observed in purchasing shell 
fish. For instance, crabs and lobsters should be purchased alive. 
They are usually shipped on ice so that they will remain in this con¬ 
dition for some time, and they are displayed on ice in the markets 
for the same reason. Such shell fish should be kept alive until they 
are plunged into boiling water to cook. Oysters and clams 
bought in the shell must also be alive when purchased. A tightly 
closed shell indicates that they are alive, whereas a slightly open 
shell proves that they are dead. If these two varieties are bought 
out of the shells, the fish themselves should not be accompanied by 
a great quantity of liquid. Considerable liquid is an indication that 
the oysters or clams have been adulterated by the addition of water. 
Formerly it was the custom to keep oysters in fresh water, as 
the water they absorb bloats or fattens them. This practice, how¬ 
ever, has fallen into disfavor. 

79. Shell fish lend themselves admirably to a large variety of 
dishes, including soups, entrees, salads, and substitutes for meat 
dishes. They possess a great deal of distinctive flavor, their food 
value is comparatively high, and, provided they are in good condi¬ 
tion and are properly prepared, they are healthful and easily 
digested. It can therefore be seen that shell fish have much to 
recommend their use. There is considerable danger, however, in 
using any varieties that are not perfectly fresh or freshly cooked. 
In the case of mollusks, or bivalves, much harm has resulted from 
the use of those which have been grown or bred in unsanitary sur¬ 
roundings. Because of these facts, it is of the utmost importance 
that great care be exercised in selecting and preparing shell fish. 

80. Composition and Food Value of Shell Fish.—In 
composition, the varieties of fish included under shell fish do not 
differ greatly from fish proper. Most of them, however, contain 
more waste and less of the food substances than fish, so that their 


38 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


food value is somewhat lower. Table IV will serve to give a good 
idea of the composition and food value of the several varieties of 
shell fish, and in studying it, a good plan will be to compare it with 
Table I, which gives the food value of fish. As will be observed, 

TABLE IV 

COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF SHELL FISH 


Name of Fish 

Water 

Protein 

Fat 

Total 

Carbo¬ 

hydrates 

Ash 

Food 

Value 

per 

Pound 

Calories 

Clams, removed from 
shell. 

80.8 

10.6 

1.1 

5.2 

2.3 

340 

Crabs, whole. 

77.1 

16.6 

2.0 

1.2 

3.1 

415 

Lobsters, whole . 

79.2 

16.4 

1.8 

.4 

2.2 

390 

Oysters, in shell. 

86.9 

6.2 

1.2 

3.7 

2.0 

235 

Scallops . 

80.3 

14.8 

.1 

3.4 

1.4 

345 


protein forms a very large proportion of the food substance of shell 
fish. Also, they contain more carbohydrates than fish, the amount 
ranging from .4 to 5.2 per cent., which is in the form of sugar. 


TABLE V 


SEASONS FOR SHELL FISH 


Name of Fish 


Season 


Clams, hard shelled. 
Clams, soft shelled. 
Crabs, hard shelled. 
Crabs, soft shelled.. 

Lobsters. 

Oysters. 

Scallops . 

Shrimp . 


All the year 
May 1 to October 15 
All the year 
March 1 to October 15 
All the year 
September 1 to May 1 
September 15 to April 1 
March 15 to June 1, and 
September 15 to October 


15 


Although this amount is too small to warrant much consideration as 
a supply of carbohydrates, it is mentioned because it is an interest¬ 
ing fact. 


81. Seasons for Shell Fish.' —With the exception of clams 
and lobster, which can be obtained all the year around, shell fish 
have particular seasons; that is, there is a certain time of the year 

































13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


30 


when they are not suitable for food. It is very important that every 
housewife know just what these seasons are, so that she will not 
include the foods in the diet of her family when they should not be 
used. Table V, which will furnish her with the information she 
needs, sh mid therefore be carefully studied. 


OYSTERS, CLAMS, AND SCALLOPS 


OYSTERS AND THEIR PREPARATION 

82. Oysters, clams, and scallops are salt-water fish that 
belong to the family of mollusks, or soft-bodied animals. They are 
entirely encased in hard shells, which, though of the same general 



Fig. 25 

shape, differ somewhat from each other in appearance. Fig. 25 
shows a group of oysters and clams, the three on the left being 
oysters and the three on the right, clams. Oysters are larger than 
clams and have a rough, uneven shell, whereas clams have a smooth, 
roundish shell. The three varieties of mollusks are closely related 
in their composition and in their use as food, but as oysters are 
probably used more commonly than the others they are considered 
first. 


83. Composition of Oysters. —Oysters occupy a prominent 
place among animal foods, because they are comparatively high in 
protein. In addition, they contain a substance that most flesh foods 
lack in any quantity, namely, carbohydrate in the form of glycogen, 
and for this reason are said to resemble milk closely in composition. 










40 FISH AND SHELL FISH §13 


A comparison of the following figures will show how these foods 
resemble each other: 



Water 

Protein 

Fat 

Carbo¬ 

hydrate 

Mineral 

Salts 

Milk. 

... 87.0 

3.3 

4.0 

5.0 

.7 

Oysters . .. . 

... 86.9 

6.2 

1.2 

3.7 

2.0 


Oysters, as will be observed, contain only a small quantity of fat, 
and for this reason their total food value is somewhat lower than 
that of milk. A pint of milk has a value of 325 calories, while the 
same quantity of oysters has an approximate value of only 250 
calories. Because of the difference in the cost of these two foods, 
oysters costing several times as much as milk, the use of oysters is 
not so cheap a way of supplying food material. 

84. Digestibility of Oysters. —When merely the ability of 
the digestive tract to handle oysters is taken into consideration, they 
are said to be easily digested if they are served raw or are properly 
prepared. This is due to the fact that when taken as a food they 
are disposed of in a comparatively short time by the stomach. In 
addition, their absorption from the alimentary tract is quite com¬ 
plete; that is, they contain little or no waste material. But, just as 
cooking has much to do with the digestibility of other protein foods, 
so it has with oysters. For this reason, the housewife who wishes 
to feed her family this food in its most digestible form must thor¬ 
oughly understand all phases of its cooking. 

85. Healthfulness of Oysters. —Much illness has been attrib¬ 
uted to oysters, and without doubt they have been the cause of 
some typhoid and some ptomaine poisoning. A knowledge of the 
reason for these diseases has done much to eliminate them. It 
is now definitely known that much of the typhoid caused from eat¬ 
ing oysters was due to the conditions under which they were grown. 
In their growth, oysters fasten themselves to stationary things, 
such as rocks or piles driven into the ground underneath the water, 
and they obtain their food by simply opening the shell and making 
use of minute particles of plant and animal life that they are able 
to extract from the water. When the water was not clean or when 
sewage was turned into it, typhoid germs were transmitted to per¬ 
sons who took oysters as food. At present, there is scarcely any 
danger from such causes, for more care is now given* to the condi¬ 
tions under which oysters grow. Ptomaine poisoning from oysters 




§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


41 


was caused by eating them when they had been improperly cared for 
in storage or had been taken from the shells after they were dead. 
Unless persons handling oysters know how to take care of them, this 
danger is still likely to exist. 

8G. Purchasing 1 Oysters.—To be able to purchase oysters 
intelligently, the housewife should be familiar with the names of the 
various kinds. These names are dependent on the locality from 
which the oysters come, and include Blue Points, Cape Cods, Cotuits, 
Lynn Havens, and numerous other varieties. It should be remem¬ 
bered that the varieties raised in different localities are quite dis¬ 
tinctive, differing to some extent in both size and appearance. Unless 
the purchaser is familiar with the different varieties, almost any of 
the small oysters are likely to be sold to her for one of the small 
varieties and, likewise, any of the large oysters for one of the large 
varieties. While this is of small consequence, provided the quality 
is satisfactory and the price is right, it is well for every housewife 
to familiarize herself with the names of the various kinds, so that 
she may know just what variety she is purchasing. 

87. When oysters are bought in the shell, they should be alive, 
a fact that can be determined by the tightly closed shell, as has 
already been stated. If the shells are not closed or can be easily 
pried apart, it may be known that the oysters are not good and that 
they should be rejected. When it is possible to procure them, 
oysters that have been removed from the shells immediately after 
being taken from the beds are preferable to those which have not 
been removed from the shells before shipping. When purchased 
out of the shells, oysters should be grayish in color, should have no 
disagreeable odor, and should contain no excess water or liquid. 
After being purchased, oysters should be kept on ice unless they can 
be cooked at once. 

The season for oysters is from September to April, inclusive. 
While in some localities they can be purchased at other times during 
the year, they are not likely to be so good. In fact, it is not safe to 
use oysters during the warm months. 

88. Important Points in Cooking Oysters.— The protein 
of oysters, like that found in other foods, is coagulated by heat. Long 
heat, provided it is sufficiently intense, makes oysters tough, and in 
this condition they are neither agreeable to eat nor readily digested. 
When they are to be cooked at a high temperature, therefore, the 


42 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


cooking should be done quickly. If they are to be cooked at a tem¬ 
perature below the boiling point, they may be subjected to heat for 
a longer time without becoming so tough as when a high tem¬ 
perature is used. Cooking quickly at a high temperature, how¬ 
ever, is preferable in most cases to long, slow cooking. For example, 
in the preparation of oyster stew, long cooking produces no better 
flavor than short cooking at a high temperature and renders oysters 
far less digestible. 

89. Opening' Oysters. —Unless oysters are bought already 
opened, it becomes necessary to open them in the home before they 
can be served raw or cooked. To open oysters is not difficult, and 
with a little experience the work can be done with ease. It will be 

well to note that the 
two shells of an oyster, 
which are called valves, 
are held together by a 
single muscle, known as 
the adductor muscle, 
that lies near the center, 
and that this muscle 
must be cut before the 
shell will open readily. 
Before attempting to 
open oysters, however, 
they should be scrubbed 
with clean water, so as to remove any sand that may be on the shells. 
When the oysters are cleaned, proceed to open them in the manner 
shown in Figs. 26 and 27. First, as in Fig. 26, insert the point of a 
knife into the hinged, or pointed, end and push the blade between 
the valves until they appear to separate, when it will be known that 
the muscle has been cut. Then, as in Fig. 27, lay the valves open 
and loosen the oyster from the shell by slipping the knife under it. 

If the oysters that are being opened are to be cooked before serv¬ 
ing, simply drop them with their liquid into a suitable vessel and dis¬ 
card the shells. Before using the oysters, remove them from the 
liquid, look them over carefully to see that no small particles of 
shells cling to them, and wash them in clean, cold water to remove 
any sand that may be present. Also, strain the liquid through a 
cloth, so that it will be free from sand when used in the preparation 





43 


§ 13 FISH AND SHELL FISH 

of the dish for which the oysters are to be used or for the making 
of soup or broth. 

Oysters that are to be eaten raw are frequently served on the half 
shell. Therefore, if they are to be used in this way, place each 
oyster, as it is loosened in the process of opening, into the deeper 
shell, as Fig. 27 shows, and discard the other one. Very often good- 
looking oyster shells are saved in order that they may be used from 
time to time in serving raw oysters that are bought already opened. 

90. Raw Oysters.— When an appetizer is desired in a meal 
that is to consist of several courses, raw oysters are often used for 
the first course. Oysters that are to be eaten raw may be served 
in the shells or removed from them. They are bland in flavor, 



Fig. 27 


however, and require some sharp, highly seasoned sauce in order to 
give them sufficient snap. The sauces commonly used for this pur¬ 
pose include cocktail sauce, chilli sauce, catsup, horseradish, and 
tobasco sauce. Sometimes, though, lemon juice or vinegar and pep¬ 
per and salt are preferred to sauce. As a rule, crisp crackers, small 
squares of toast, or wafers and butter accompany raw oysters in 
any form, and sometimes celery and radishes are served, too. 

91. When a cocktail sauce is served with raw oysters, they are 
generally referred to as oyster cocktails. Two methods of serv¬ 
ing these are in practice. In one, as shown in Fig. 28, the cocktail 
sauce is put into a small glass placed in the center of a soup plate 
filled with cracked ice, and the oysters, usually six in half shells, are 






44 FISH AND SHELL FISH §13 

arranged around the glass, on the ice. In the other, as shown in 
Fig. 29, the desired number of oysters that have been removed from 
the shells are dropped into a stemmed glass containing the cocktail 


Fig. 28 

sauce, and the glass is placed in a bowl of cracked ice. An oyster 
fork, which is a small, three-pronged fork, is always served with 
raw oysters, and usually a piece of lemon is supplied in addition to 
the cocktail sauce. 

92. Oyster Stew. —If an extremely nutritious way of prepar¬ 
ing oysters is desired, oyster stew should be selected. This is per¬ 
haps the simplest way in which to cook oysters, and yet care must 


Fig. 29 

be exercised in making this dish, for the oysters should not be 
cooked too long and the milk, which must be brought to the boiling 
point, should not be allowed to burn. Oyster stew makes an excel- 














13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


45 


lent dish for lunch. It should not be served as the first course of a 
heavy meal because of the large amount of nutriment it contains. 

Oyster Stew 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1 qt. oysters 1 tsp. salt 

1 qt. milk J tsp. pepper 

2 Tb. butter 

Pour 1 cupful of water over the oysters, look them over carefully, 
and remove any pieces of shell that may cling to the oysters, making 
sure that any particles of sand are washed off. Heat this liquid to 
the boiling point and then strain it through a cloth. Put the milk 
on the fire to heat, and when hot, add the butter, salt, and pepper, 
and strained liquid. After the whole mixture has come to the boil¬ 
ing point, pour in the oysters and cook until they look plump and the 
edges begin to curl. Remove from the heat and serve with crisp 
crackers. 

93. Creamed Oysters.— Another nutritious way in which to 
prepare oysters and at the same time produce a dish that is pleasing 
to most persons is to cream them. After being creamed, oysters 
may be served over toast or in timbale cases. 

Creamed Oysters 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

2 Tb. butter Salt and pepper 

24 oysters 6 slices toast or 6 timbale 

1 \ c. medium white sauce cases 

Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the oysters, and heat them in 
the butter until the edges begin to curl slightly. Pour the hot oysters 
into the hot white sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and 
serve over toast or in timbale cases. 

94. Scalloped Oysters. —No food makes a more palatable 
scalloped dish than oysters. Oysters so prepared are liked by nearly 
every one, and the ingredients with which they are combined help 
to give such a dish balance so far as the food substances are con¬ 
cerned. Care should be taken, however, in the baking of scalloped 
oysters, for they are likely to become tough if they are cooked too 
long. 

Scalloped Oysters 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1 c. bread crumbs 1 pt. oysters 

2 Tb. butter Salt and pepper 

1 c. cracker crumbs 1 c. milk 


46 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


Butter the bread crumbs with the butter, and then mix them with 
the cracker crumbs. Sprinkle the bottom of a greased baking dish 
with one-fourth of the crumbs, and over this put a layer of oysters 
that have been previously cleaned. Sprinkle with salt and pepper 
and add one-fourth more of the crumbs. Add another layer of 
oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place the remainder of 
the crumbs on top. Strain the liquid from the oysters through a 
piece of cloth, mix this with the milk, and pour over the dish thus 
prepared. Place in a hot oven, and bake until the mixture is thor¬ 
oughly heated and the top is brown. 

95. Fried Oysters.— Of all the dishes prepared from oysters, 
fried oysters undoubtedly find favor with the greatest number of 
persons. However, unless care is taken in frying the oysters, they 
are likely to be somewhat indigestible. Deep fat should be used for 
this purpose, and it should be hot enough to brown a 1-inch cube of 
bread a golden brown in 40 seconds. 

Fried Oysters 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

24 large oysters Fine cracker crumbs 

1 egg Salt 

i c. milk Pepper 

Thoroughly dry the oysters by laying them on one end of a soft 
cloth and patting them with the other. Beat the egg and add the 
milk to it. Dip the oysters into the cracker crumbs, then into the 
egg-and-milk mixture, and again into the crumbs. Fry in deep fat 
until brown. Remove from the fat, drain well, and place on oiled 
paper. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve hot. 

96. Oyster Pie.— Baking oysters into a pie is another means 
of combining a protein food with foods that are high in other food 
substances. As oyster pie is somewhat hearty, it may be used as the 
main dish of a heavy meal. 

Oyster Pie 
(S ufficient to Serve Six) 

1 pt. oysters Salt and pepper 

1 c. medium white sauce Baking-powder biscuit dough 

Cut each of the oysters into three or four pieces, and place them 
in a greased baking dish. Pour over them the hot white sauce and 
the juice from the oysters. Season with salt and pepper. Over the 
top, place a layer of the biscuit dough rolled about \ inch thick. Set 
in a hot oven and bake until the crust is brown. 


13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


47 


0 <. Pigs in Blankets. 1 —When something entirely different in 
the way of oysters is desired, pigs in blankets should be tried. This 
is a very good name for the dish given in the accompanying recipe, 
for the oysters are rolled up in a strip of bacon, which serves as a 
blanket. They are especially suitable for a light meal, such as lun¬ 
cheon or a dainty lunch that is to be served to company. 

Pigs in Blankets 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

18 large oysters 18 thin strips of bacon 
After the oysters have been cleaned, roll each one in a strip of 
bacon. Fasten the bacon where the edges meet by running a tooth¬ 
pick through at this point. Place in a broiler and broil on one side 
until brown; then turn them and broil until the other side is brown. 
Serve hot. 

98. Oyster Fritters. —Variety may also be secured in the use 
of oysters by making oyster fritters. When such fritters are nicely 
browned and served with an appetizing sauce, an attractive as well 
as a tasty dish is the result. 

Oyster Fritters 
(S ufficient to Serve Six) 

1 pt. oysters 1-egg muffin batter 
Clean the oysters and cut each into four or five pieces. Make a 
one-egg muffin batter and to it add the cut oysters. Drop the mix¬ 
ture by spoonfuls into deep fat and fry until brown. Remove from 
the fat, drain, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve with a 
desired sauce. 


CLAMS AND THEIR PREPARATION 

99. Nature and Digestibility of Clams. —Clams are 
bivalves similar to oysters in both form and composition. Because 
of the similarity in composition, they are utilized in much the same 
ways as oysters, being used extensively for food in parts of the 
country where the supply is large. There are numerous varieties of 
clams, and some of them differ slightly from each other in appear¬ 
ance, color, and flavor. Preference for the different varieties is 
largely a matter of individual taste. 

Clams may be purchased loose or in the shell and they may be 
served in or out of the shell. However, when bought in the shell, 
they must be purchased alive and must be subjected to the same tests 
as are oysters. As in the case of oysters, they may be eaten raw or 



48 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


cooked. Their preparation for cooking is similar to that of oysters. 
In the raw state, they are easily digested, but upon the application 
of heat they become tough, and the longer they are cooked, the 
tougher they become. It can therefore be seen that the digestibility 
of clams is influenced very much by cooking. 

100 . Opening Clams. —If clams are to be opened in the 
home, the method illustrated in Fig. 30 may be employed. First 
wash the clams to remove the sand, and then place a clam on a hard 
surface so that the pointed edge is up. Insert the thin edge of a 
knife into the very slight groove between the shells, or valves, and 
with a heavy utensil of some kind strike the top of the knife several 



Fig. 30 

times so as to separate the valves. Then, as in opening oysters, 
spread the shells apart, as shown, and loosen the clam from the shell 
it adheres to. 

101. Raw Clams.— Like oysters, raw clams are generally 
served as a cocktail, or an appetizer, at the beginning of a meal. If 
they are to be served in the half shell, place them in a dish of cracked 
ice; if they are to be served without the shells, place the required 
number in a stemmed glass that is set in a dish of cracked ice. In 
either case, lemon or a suitable sauce, or both, should be supplied. 

102. Steamed Clams. —Steaming is the method generally 
adopted when clams in large numbers are cooked for a “clam bake,” 
but there is no reason why it cannot be used by the housewife when 
she wishes to cook only enough for her family. When large quan¬ 
tities are to be steamed, use is generally made of a steamer, but the 









§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


40 


housewife will find that she can steam a few clams very satisfac¬ 
torily in a saucepan or a similar vessel. 

To prepare steamed clams, scrub the shells of the clams until they 
are perfectly clean. Place the desired number thus cleaned in a 
saucepan and add enough water to cover the bottom of the pan about 
1 inch. Allow this to cook until the shells of the clams open. 
Remove the clams from the pan and serve them in the shells. Pro¬ 
vide each person with a small dish of melted butter into which to 
dip the clams as they are removed from the shells to be eaten. The 
liquid found in the clams may be poured from the shell before the 
clams are served, and after being well seasoned may be served as 
clam broth. 

103 . Baked Clams. —Another very appetizing way in which 
to prepare clams is to combine them with bread crumbs, season 
them well, and then bake them until they are well browned. Select 
several good-sized clams for each person to be served. Scrub the 
shells well and open them. Remove the clams and chop them into 
small pieces. To each cupful of chopped clams, add 2 cupfuls of 
buttered bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 1 table¬ 
spoonful of chopped pimiento, and 1 tablespoonful of onion juice. 
Season the mixture with salt and pepper and fill the shells with it. 
Place these in a shallow pan and bake in a very hot oven until the 
crumbs are well browned on top. Serve hot. 

104 . Fried Clams.’ —As oysters make a very desirable dish 
when fried in deep fat, so clams may be treated in this way, too. 
Remove the desired number of clams from the shells, wash them 
thoroughly, and dry them on a clean towel. Dip them into beaten 
egg, and finally into the crumbs. Fry in deep fat until they are a 
golden brown. Serve with slices of lemon. 


SCALLOPS AND THEIR PREPARATION 

105 . Nature of Scallops. —Scallops, which are another form 
of bivalves, are less commonly used for food than oysters and clams. 
Scalloped dishes get their name from the fact that scallop shells 
were originally used for their preparation. Not all of the scallop 
is used for food; merely the heavy muscle that holds the two shells 
together is edible. Scallops are slightly higher in protein than 
oysters and clams and they also have a higher food value than these 



FISH AND SHELL FISH 


50 


§13 


two mollusks. The most common method of preparation for scallops 
is to fry them, but they may also be baked in the shells. 

106. Fried Scallops. —If scallops are properly fried, they 
make an appetizing dish. As they are a rather bland food, a sauce 
of some kind, preferably a sour one, is generally served with them. 

Select the desired number of scallops and wash thoroughly. Dip 
first into either fine bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, then into 
beaten egg, and again into the crumbs. Fry in deep fat until a 
golden brown, remove, and drain. Serve with lemon or a sour 
sauce, such as horseradish or tomato sauce. 

107. Baked Scallops. —If a tasty as well as a slightly unusual 
dish is desired to give variety to the diet, baked scallops will undoubt¬ 
edly find favor. As shown in the accompanying recipe, mushrooms 
are one of the ingredients in baked scallops and these not only pro¬ 
vide additional material, but improve the flavor. 

To prepare baked scallops, clean the desired number, parboil for 
15 minutes, drain, and cut into small pieces. For each cupful of 
scallops, melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan, saute in it 
1 tablespoonful of chopped onion, and add \ cupful of chopped 
mushrooms. When these have browned, add 2 tablespoonfuls of 
flour and 1 cupful of milk. Cook until thick and then add the 
scallops. Fill the scallop shells with the mixture, sprinkle with 
buttered bread crumbs, place in the oven, and bake until the crumbs 
are brown. 


LOBSTERS, CRABS, AND SHRIMP 


GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 

108. The shell fish, lobsters, crabs, and shrimp, come under 
the head of crustaceans; that is, animals consisting of jointed sec¬ 
tions, each of which is covered with a hard shell. Their flesh is 
similar in composition to that of other fish, but it is tougher and 
harder to digest. However, it is popular because of its unique and 
delicate flavor. In fact, whenever these varieties of fish can be 
obtained along the seacoast or within a reasonable distance from the 
place where they are caught, they are considered a delicacy. If they 
can be shipped alive to any point, they are perfectly safe to use, 
although quite high in price because of their perishable nature. 




§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


51 


101). Unless such shell fish can be procured alive in the markets, 
the use of a good brand of any of them canned is recommended. 
In fact, canned lobster, crab, and shrimp are very satisfactory and 
may be substituted for any of the fresh cooked varieties in the 
recipes that follow. It is true that some persons object to canned 
food because ptomaine poisoning sometimes results, but it has been 
found that ptomaine poisoning is more liable to result from eating 
these foods when they are bought in the market in poor condition 
than when they are secured in canned form. Care must be exer¬ 
cised, however, whenever use is made of canned food of any kind. 
Upon opening a can of any of these varieties of fish, the entire con¬ 
tents should be removed from the can at once and used as soon as 
possible. It must be remembered that the ptomaine poisoning that 
is sometimes caused by eating canned foods is not due to the fact 
that the foods come in tin cans, but that they are allowed to stand 
in the cans after they are opened. Upon their being exposed to the 
air, putrefaction sets in and causes the harmful effect. 

110. Lobsters, crabs, and shrimp are very similar in composi¬ 
tion, shrimp being slightly higher in protein and total food value than 
the others. If they are not prepared in an indigestible way, they are 
comparatively easy to digest. It has been proved a fallacy that 
lobster and ice cream are a dangerous combination, for if both are 
in good condition they may be combined with no ill effects to the 
normal individual. 


LOBSTERS AND THEIR PREPARATION 

111. Distinguishing- Features. —Of these three types of 
sea food, lobsters are perhaps the most popular. They are found 
along the North Atlantic and North Pacific seacoasts. Alive, they 
are mottled bluish-green in color, but upon being cooked they change 
to bright red. As soon as they are caught, many of them are packed 
in ice and shipped alive to various points, while others are plunged 
immediately into boiling water and sold cooked. A live lobster 
ready for cooking is shown in Fig. 31. Lobsters vary greatly in 
size. Only those 9 inches or more in length can be sold, the smaller 
ones being thrown back into the water. When they are purchased 
either raw or cooked, they should be heavy for their size; that 
is, they should be heavy because of their plumpness and good 
condition. 



52 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


112. Preliminary Preparation. —To prepare a lobster, 
which should be alive, grasp it firmly by the back, as shown in 



Fig. 31 

Fig. 32, plunge it quickly, head first, into a kettle of rapidly boiling 
water, and then submerge the rest of the body. Be sure to have a 
sufficient amount of water to cover the lobster completely. Boil 
rapidly for 5 minutes; then lower the flame or remove to a cooler 
part of the stove and cook slowly for \ hour. Remove from the 
water and allow to cool. 

After being prepared in this way, a lobster may be served cold or 
it may be used in the preparation of various made dishes. If it is 

to be used without fur¬ 
ther preparation, it is 
often served from the 
shell, which is usually 
split open. Mayonnaise 
or some other sauce is 
generally served with 
lobster. The flesh is re¬ 
moved from the shell 
with a small fork as it 
is eaten. 

113. Removing 
Lobster From the 
Shell.—The maj ority 
Df the dishes made from 
lobster require that the 
flesh be removed from 
the shell. To do this, first pull off the two large claws and the 
four pairs of small claws, as shown in Fig. 33, and break the tail 



Fig. 32 














§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


53 


from the body. Then with scissors, as in Fig. 34, cut a single slit 
the entire length of the shell covering the under part of the tail and 



Fig. 33 


remove the flesh inside the tail in a whole, large piece, as shown in 
Fig. 35. The intestinal tract, which can be readily observed, will 
be found embedded in this piece and running the entire length. 
Slash the flesh and remove it. Next remove the flesh of the body 
from the shell, retaining only that part which appears to be fibrous, 
like the flesh of the tail. The stomach, which is called “the lady” 
because its inside ap¬ 
pearance closely resem¬ 
bles a lady sitting in a 
chair, should not be re¬ 
moved from the shell. 

However, care should 
be taken to obtain all the 
flesh surrounding the 
bones in the bony part 
of the lobster. The coral 
substance, that is, the 
roe of the lobster, should 
also be removed, as it 
can be used for a gar¬ 
nish. 

With the flesh removed from the shell, proceed to take out that 
contained in the claws. Break open the large claws, using a nut 






54 




Fig. 36 

of lobster will find scalloped lobster a very attractive dish. When 
prepared in this way, it is suitable either for luncheon or for dinner. 


FISH AND SHELL FISH § 13 


cracker or a small hammer for this purpose, and, as in Fig. 36, remove 
the flesh that they contain. If the small claws are to be used for a 

garnish, as is often done, 
remove the flesh without 
breaking them; other¬ 
wise break them as in 
the case of the large 
ones. 

114. Lobster 
Cocktail. — Practically 
all varieties of shell fish 
make most satisfactory 
cocktails, and lobster is 
no exception. To make 
a lobster cocktail, shred 
or cut into small pieces 
the flesh of a lobster that 
has been prepared according to the directions just given. Chill the 
shreds or pieces and then serve them in stemmed cocktail glasses 
with any desirable cocktail sauce. 


115. Scalloped Lobster. —Persons who care for the flavor 








§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


55 


Scalloped Lobster 
(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1 c. lobster meat 1 hard-cooked egg 

1 c. medium white sauce Salt 
f c. buttered bread crumbs Pepper 
Mix the lobster with the medium white sauce. Butter a baking 
dish, place half of the crumbs in the bottom, and pour over them the 
lobster and white sauce. Slice the hard-cooked egg over the top of 
the lobster, season the whole well with salt and pepper, and sprinkle 
the remainder of the crumbs over the top. Place in a hot oven and 
bake until the crumbs are brown. Garnish with sprays of parsley 
and serve at once. 


116. Deviled Lobster. —A dish that is delicious and at the 
same time very attractive is deviled lobster. After removing the 
flesh from the shell, the shell should be cleaned thoroughly, as it is 
to be used as a receptacle in which to put the lobster mixture for 
baking. When removed from the oven, this dish can be made more 
attractive by garnishing it with the lobster claws and tail. 

Deviled Lobster 


(Sufficient to Serve Six) 


1 Tb. chopped onion 

2 Tb. butter 
2 Tb. flour 

1 tsp. salt 

Dash of Cayenne pepper 
4 tsp. paprika 


4 tsp. pepper 
1 Tb. lemon juice 
1 Tb. chopped parsley 

1 c. milk 

2 c. lobster meat 

4 c. buttered cracker crumbs 


Saute the onion in the butter, and to this add the flour, 
Cayenne pepper, paprika, pepper, lemon juice, and parsley. 


salt, 

Mix 


well and add the milk. When the whole has cooked until it is thick, 
add the lobster. Pour the mixture into the clean shell of the lobster, 
sprinkle with cracker crumbs, and place in the oven long enough to 
brown the crumbs. Remove from the oven, place on a serving dish, 
garnish with the claws and tail of the lobster, if desired, and serve 


at once. 


117. Lobster a la Newburg. —When lobster a la Newburg 
is mentioned, one naturally thinks of a chafing dish, for this is one 
of the dishes that is very often made in a chafing dish and served at 
small social gatherings. However, it can be made just as satisfac¬ 
torily on the kitchen stove and is a dish suitable for a home luncheon 
or small dinner. 


56 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


§13 


Lobster a la Newburg 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

2 Tb. butter i c. milk 

1 Tb. flour i c. thin cream 

2 c. lobster 1 tsp. vinegar 

i tsp. salt 1 Tb. lemon juice 

Few grains of Cayenne pepper 2 egg yolks 

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and into this pour the 
lobster meat cut into rather large pieces. Add the salt, pepper, milk, 
and cream; cook together until thick, and then pour in the vinegar 
and lemon juice. Beat the egg yolks and stir them into the cooked 
mixture, using care to prevent them from curdling. When the mix¬ 
ture has thickened, remove from the stove and serve over toast. 

118. Lobster Croquettes. —Probably the most attractive dish 
that can be made out of lobster is the one explained in the accom¬ 
panying recipe. As this is artistically garnished, and at the same 
time extremely appetizing, it is suitable for a meal that is intended 
to be very nice, such as a dainty luncheon. If the elaborate garnish¬ 
ing here suggested is not desired, the croquettes may be served with 
merely a suitable sauce. 

Lobster Croquettes 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1 c. thick white sauce 4 tsp. salt 

2 eggs 4 tsp. pepper 

2 c. diced lobster meat Fine bread crumbs 

Prepare the white sauce and allow it to cool. Add one beaten egg 
and the lobster meat. Season with the salt and pepper. Shape into 
croquettes, roll in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry in deep fat 
until an even brown. Drain, stick a lobster claw into the end of each, 
and arrange on a platter with the claws around the outside. Pour 
a medium white sauce over the opposite ends and the centers of the 
croquettes and over this sprinkle the lobster coral and hard-cooked 
egg yolks, which have been forced through a sieve. In the center of 
the platter, arrange a small mound of parsley and one of the large 
claws of the lobster. 


CRABS AND THEIR PREPARATION 

111). Nature of Crabs. —Numerous varieties of crabs are 
obtained along the seashores of the United States, and most of them 
measure not more than 5 or 6 inches across. Shell fish in this form 



§ 13 FISH AND SHELL FISH 57 

are used for food both before the shells have hardened, when they 
are known as soft-shcllcd crabs, and after the shells have grown 
hard, when they are called hard-shelled crabs. To be at their best, 
crabs should be as heavy as lobsters in proportion to their size. 
Their flesh should be firm and stiff and their eyes should be bright. 
The male crab has a smaller body and longer claws than the 
female. In food value, crabs are quite similar to lobsters. 

Tiny oyster crabs are found in the shells of crabs as well as in 
oysters. These are considered a great delicacy and are used chiefly 
for garnishing, because they are very small and, as a rule, are not 
found in large numbers. 

120. Preliminary Preparation.—Before either soft-shelled 
or hard-shelled crabs can be used as food, a certain amount of prep¬ 
aration is necessary. In the case of hard-shelled crabs, plunge them 
alive into hot water, allow them to come to the boiling point, and 
cook slowly for \ hour. It is a good plan to add 1 tablespoonful of 
salt for each crab that is being boiled. While the crabs are cooking, 
remove the scum that rises to the top. When they are sufficiently 
cooked, open the shells and take out the meat, being careful to 
remove all the meat from the claws. 

Soft-shelled crabs require a somewhat different kind of prepara¬ 
tion. With this variety, lift up the points on each side of the back 
shell and remove the spongy substance that is found under them. 
In addition, take off the apron, which is the small piece that occurs 
at the lower part of the shell and that terminates in points. The 
crabs are then ready for frying, which is the method of cooking that 
is usually applied to this variety. 

121. Crab-Flake Cocktail. —Crab meat is used for cocktails 
in the same way as oysters, clams, and lobster. In fact, no better 
appetizer to serve at the beginning of a meal can be found. To 
make crab-flake cocktail, remove the meat from the shells of cooked 
hard-shelled crabs in the way just explained, and chill it. Then 
place it in stemmed glasses and serve with cocktail sauce. 

122. Deviled Crabs. —Variety in the cooking of hard-shelled 
crabs can be secured by deviling them according to the accompany¬ 
ing directions. As will be observed, this is done in practically the 
same way that lobster is deviled. 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


13 


58 


Deviled Crabs 

(Sufficient to Serve Four) 

2 Tb. butter Dash Cayenne pepper 

4 crabs -§ tsp. pepper 

1 c. cream sauce 1 egg 

1 Tb. onion juice Cracker crumbs 
i tsp. salt 

Put the butter in a frying pan, add the meat from the four crabs, 
and pour into this the cream sauce. Season with the onion juice, 
salt, Cayenne pepper, and pepper. Add the well-beaten egg and 
allow the mixture to cook until the egg has thickened, being careful 
not to let it curd. Fill the back shells of the crabs with this mix¬ 
ture, sprinkle with cracker crumbs, place in a hot oven, and bake 
until brown. Serve hot or cold. 

123. Fried Soft-Shelled Crabs. —After soft-shelled crabs 
are prepared in the manner explained in Art. 120, they are usually 
fried in deep fat. Egg and cracker dust or flour are used to make a 
coating for the crabs. 

Fried Soft-Shelled Crabs 

(Sufficient to Serve Four) 

4 soft-shelled crabs Cracker dust or flour 
1 egg Salt and pepper 

Prepare the crabs by removing the apron and the spongy sub¬ 
stance under the shell of each crab. Beat the egg slightly. Roll the 
crabs first in the egg and then in the cracker dust or the flour. Fry 
in hot, deep fat until a golden brown. Remove from the fat, drain, 
and sprinkle well with salt and pepper to season. Serve hot or cold. 

124. Creamed Crab Meat. —When the meat of hard-shelled 
crabs is creamed, it makes a very dainty dish, especially if it is served 
over toast or in timbale cases. To give a touch of color and at the 
same time add a little flavor, chopped pimiento is generally added. 

Boil the desired number of hard-shelled crabs and remove the 
meat from the shells. For each cupful of crab meat, prepare 1 cup¬ 
ful of medium white sauce. Add the crab meat, season well, and, if 
desired, add some chopped pimiento. Serve hot over toast or in 
timbale cases. 

SHRIMP AND THEIR PREPARATION 

125. Nature of Shrimp. —Shrimp are similar to crabs and 
lobsters in composition and in the methods of preparation. They 
differ considerably in appearance, however, and are smaller in size. 



§13 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 


59 


When alive, shrimp are a mottled greenish color, but upon being 
dropped into boiling-hot water they turn red. When they have cooked 
sufficiently, the meat, which is very delicious, may be easily removed 
from the shells. After the meat of shrimp is thus prepared, it may 
be used cold in a salad or a cocktail or it may be utilized in a number 
of ways for hot dishes. Very often a chafing dish is used in the 
preparation of such 
dishes, but this utensil 
is not necessary, as they 
may be cooked in an 
ordinary utensil on a 
stove of any kind. 

12(>. C r e a m e d 
Shrimp. —The usual 
way of preparing shrimp 
is to cook it with mush¬ 
rooms and then serve it 
over toast, or, as shown in Fig. 37, in timbale cases. Creamed shrimp 
is dainty in appearance, pleasing to the taste, and highly nutritious. 

Creamed Shrimp 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

1 c. medium white sauce •£ tsp. salt 

1 c. diced shrimp i tsp. pepper 

c. chopped mushrooms 

Heat the white sauce, and to it add the shrimp, mushrooms, salt, 
and pepper. Beat a little butter into the mixture to improve the 
flavor, heat, and serve in timbale cases, as shown, or over toast. 

127. Shrimp a La Salle. —Shrimp also makes an appetizing 
and attractive dish when combined with tomato and green pepper. 
The accompanying recipe gives directions for the preparation of 
such a dish, which is called shrimp a La Salle. 

Shrimp a La Salle 

(Sufficient to Serve Six) 

2 Tb. butter 1 Tb. chopped onion 

1 c. shredded shrimp 1 tsp. celery salt 

1 c. stewed tomato 1 tsp. salt 

1 small green pepper, chopped i tsp. pepper 

Brown the butter in a saucepan, and add the shrimp, tomato, 
green pepper, onion, celery salt, salt, and pepper. Heat all together 
thoroughly, and serve over toast. 



Fig. 37 











FISH AND SHELL FISH 


EXAMINATION QUESTIONS 

(1) (a) For what food may fish be substituted in the diet? 

( b ) How does fish compare with meat as to its usefulness as food? 

(2) (a) What food substances are present in fish? ( b ) How 
does the food value of fish compare with that of meat? 

(3) (a) Discuss the digestibility of fish. ( b ) How does the 
salting of fish for preservation affect its digestibility? 

(4) How does the housewife’s purchase of fish affect the market 
price ? 

(5) What methods of cookery should be used in preparing: 
(a) large fish? ( b ) small fish? 

(6) Mention the tests for determining the freshness of fish. 

(7) Discuss the care of fish in the home. 

(8) Give the steps in the preparation of a fish for cooking. 

(9) Give the steps in the boning of a fish. 

(10) ( a ) What are fillets? ( b ) Tell briefly how fillets are 
obtained. 

(11) Why are sauces frequently served with fish? 

(12) (a) What is larding? ( b ) How may fish be larded? 

(c) For what purpose is larding done? 

(13) How may salt fish be freshened? 

(14) (a) Mention the shell fish. ( b ) Discuss their usefulness 
in the diet. 


SIS 





FISH AND SHELL FISH § 13 

What precautions should be taken in the purchase of shell 


(15) 

fish? 

(16) Discuss the composition and food value of shell fish. 

(17) Compare the composition of milk with that of oysters. 

(18) (a) What is the season for oysters? ( b ) How are oysters 
opened ? 

(19) (a) How are clams opened? ( b ) What is the effect of 
long cooking on clams ? 

(20) (a) How are lobsters prepared? ( b ) Mention the two 
kinds of crabs, (c) How do these differ? 


ADDITIONAL, WORK 

Mention the varieties of fish most common in your local market. 
Compare the cost of a sufficient amount of fish to serve your 
family with the cost of beef and either veal or lamb served to the 
same number of persons at other times. Submit your results. 








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T ( 

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u-v- Y *2 




